Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

boostmeister had tuned cam gears and s-afc and a few other thing I'm not sure about the 300 rwhp. on many other dyno's cause as we all know some dynos read higher than others.

I know for a fact the cg30 turbo is rated @ 300-320 hp @ the fly wheel it only has a 49 mm exhaust wheel.

but still they are a good turbo I do miss mine even though it was laggy.

meggala

Originally posted by JiMiH

laggy?

damn! :)

is the vg30 much laggier than the standard turbo?

Shit yeah you are pulling out a roller bearing turbo (sorry im not sure about others but i have a vg30 nonbb) with small .48 or similar exhaust housing with tiny wheel now you will be upgrading to somthing with much larger exhaust iun comparison..

Im guessing you wont get full boost till 3500 does this sound about right? I had one on a CA18DET and it didnt give me full boost till about 3700rpm.

As for the other guys I mentioned 18psi as a ball park figure with other mods to acheive 300rwhp from an rb20...But as Inasnt said it is absolute max rating! Id be saving up a bit more and going for a HKS 2540 or the like if i was in your boat Jimih :burnout:

You still have to do cooler first and some engine management

mmmmmm a GT2540 would be nice .... I think I'll just have to stick with the VG30 for a while till I save up more money :)

I got the intercooler today ... now I just have to get it fitted.

That new fuel pump is loud!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was wondering about this. I'll do some research.
    • Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
×
×
  • Create New...