Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Darren Dude.. :D

I did connect wire53 back up as some one had previously cut yours.

You still don't get a speed reading (PFC and the DASH) because your speedo drive cog has fallen off. :)

You will once that has been sorted out, well you should as how else would the ecu know when to cut once you hit 180-185km/h.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57089-pfc-help/page/2/#findComment-1218909
Share on other sites

The only wires my rb20t box has going back to some where appears to only be a reverse light. There is 1 plug that doesn't appear to plug in to anything.

R31Power, You are 100% sure that some one previously hasn't cut the ecu's speedo wire?

I'm assuming the R32's get their speed reading from the dash once its converted from the mechanical cable to the dash.

I'm dropping a PFC in to my 32 this week so I will find out if the R32 does indeed report a speed reading on the PFC H/C.

An inspection of the R32's wiring diagram could answer the question. :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57089-pfc-help/page/2/#findComment-1219443
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Ok I think my TPS has shat itself.I've tried from 29mV right upto 49mV and when I back off it does'nt!!!it slowely decreases the injector duty cycle.At all different rpm and settings it's different grrrrrr.What have you RB20 boys got yours set to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57089-pfc-help/page/2/#findComment-1293608
Share on other sites

Mines set on 46mv or what the pfc reads .46v.

It occasionally flicks between .46v & .47v.

I always get 0% duty cycle when decelerating.

Only when cold will it pop or run on a little while decelerating.

If I set any lower than .46v I get a slight flat spot on the tip of the accelerator.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57089-pfc-help/page/2/#findComment-1293658
Share on other sites

Good shit Joel.Yer mine was set at 46mv I think before I fiddled with it :rofl: but nearly everytime I backed off it would spike the duty cycle then go 0.0%.Now it wont decelerating on any setting straight away.

You no how the shaft coming out of the T/B is a moon shape and that fits in the TPS,well do you think it's flogged out?I might give it one layer of tape coz i'm sure it was fairly loose.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57089-pfc-help/page/2/#findComment-1293998
Share on other sites

I fiddled more and it's still farked!! and I even tried another TPS.I put crc in the connectors just to make sure and it's still not loving it.

Some times backing off it will be ok but other times it still pushes the car.I puller the cooler pipe off and looked in the T/B and it's spotless and not sticking.I'm running out of ideas guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57089-pfc-help/page/2/#findComment-1295710
Share on other sites

Ok it's set at .46mv and it's fine *confused*the only things I have done is push the plug in the ecu more :) and unhooked the commander,but I done the above at the same time.It idles dam good to :)

Moral of the story is to make sure the ecu plug is pushed in fully

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57089-pfc-help/page/2/#findComment-1301780
Share on other sites

Riddle me this.Cold morning,water temp hits 30degrees and the revs start to fall(as it should) but then goes back up?It will vary from 1000rpm right upto 1400rpm :bs!: then the good part :D I pull the commander plug from the ecu and it idles fine :Bang: Once the motor gets warmer it's fine but these cold mornings are giving it greif

I know the commander should only be unplugged once the motor is off but cbf and this idle prob is killing me.It's not hunting coz the injector duty cycle is'nt going to 0.0% then back up,so what does this mean??

Also note my battery is in poor health,could that be a prob.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57089-pfc-help/page/2/#findComment-1309794
Share on other sites

Riddle me this.Cold morning,water temp hits 30degrees and the revs start to fall(as it should) but then goes back up?It will vary from 1000rpm right upto 1400rpm :bs!: then the good part :P I pull the commander plug from the ecu and it idles fine :Bang: Once the motor gets warmer it's fine but these cold mornings are giving it greif

I know the commander should only be unplugged once the motor is off but cbf and this idle prob is killing me.It's not hunting coz the injector duty cycle is'nt going to 0.0% then back up,so what does this mean??

Also note my battery is in poor health,could that be a prob.

Hmmmm that's weird, unplugging the Commander shouldn't make any difference. What voltage does it show at idle?"cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57089-pfc-help/page/2/#findComment-1310536
Share on other sites

Excellent a reply :(

it's showing 13.8volts at idle and the water temp is at 73degrees.It only revs up and down when the water temp is under 50degrees or so with the commander plugged in.Very strange.

My first guess would be the standard wiring harness plug is not inserted into the PFC perfectly. I have seen this a number of times, it's the first place I would check.:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57089-pfc-help/page/2/#findComment-1311670
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...