Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Datalogit worked no problem'o. Must have been a newer version of the software Gav. It's all good, thanks for the ecu by the way mate :D

No sweat Rev

btw - did Lumpy or Ken confirm that it's NOT the Pro version? I was never sold to me as such (nor did I sell it as a Pro version), but it has the "PFC PRO" sticker on it?

Interesting...

driver,

front pipes and 3 inch exhaust, Power FC, Tomei 260deg 9.15mm lift cams, 10/11psi of boost, Blitz pods (although they are sucking hot air at the moment). Although it doesn't alter the dyno reading the car has also got lightweight Trust pulleys and has had the belt driven fan replaced with a 16inch electric thermo fan.

The factory engine and turbos have done over 236,000kms, so it's pretty good for a grandad engine.

rev210,

wot your plans for the future for the gtr? do you plan to go further with the development etc and if so wot did you have in mind. Cos there alot of potental there your yet to tap into but with a tired motor i can understand not pushing it to far. the beauty of the rb26 is that it does cost alot to really get some awesome rewards. Hope to see you round soon .

pete

Hi pete,

There is an oil cooler and filter relotaion kit waiting to go in (maybe today) to get some of the heat out of the motor and help it live a little longer. It's a nice kit only $600 or so new with stainless braided lines and 15 row oil cooler.

Hi pete,

There is an oil cooler and filter relotaion kit waiting to go in (maybe today) to get some of the heat out of the motor and help it live a little longer. It's a nice kit only $600 or so new with stainless braided lines and 15 row oil cooler.

cool sound like a good idea ,i been looking for a desent oil cool kit for awhile can i ask where you got it and wot make it is, wot sign are you using to tell you the motor is tired may i ask (low oil pressure, or compression etc) do you hope to rebuild soon.

pete :rolleyes:

ha are you going to this xmas do on thursday cos it would be cool to catch up with a few of you guys for a beer and a chat .two more days and i'm back on dry land woohoo :headspin:

Hi Pete,

The oil cooler is one I bought from Sal at 'Shift' over east ( one of the SAU advertised sponsors ). Worked out to around $625 delivered. So far the only measure of how tired the motor is is the kms. I haven't got around to measure the compression yet. Oil pressure is normal.

I am going to try and get to the christmas bash but, this week is a killer for me work wise so I won't know till very close to the day.

Steve,

I reckon Aidwin secretly wants to kill his turbo's tho so he has a good excuse to get bigger ones I bet :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...