Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hallo.

just bought an '89 gtr a few weeks ago, did an engine compression test, and its averaging about 142-145 accross all 6 cylinders. not exactly an impressive figure, but before i do anything in the means of modifications to the car, i wanna get it running the way it should do.

self admitedly not the guru with cars, so i've come to this forum for some help/suggestions.

- without looking at it, what are the usual causes of a below 'acceptable' engine pressure? I know that a decent platform to work from is the 160 mark, is that right?

- what can be done to improve the engine pressure, along with rough price estimates.

i know i have given limited solid information,so if there's anything else that would help you guys answer my query, then lemme know.

cheers for you time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57802-helpsuggestions-145psi-eng-pressure/
Share on other sites

You see if only one or two were down you could blame a head gasket but if all 6 are evenish with in 5-7 psi of each other then sorry but yeah time for a rebuild....

If the oil does not improve this result then id try another gadge... Also look to see that the timing is correct....

any body :| ?

if the figures are only 2-3psi different across all cylinders i would not worry at all, this is the main thing u judge compression by, there are many factors that can stuff around your outright figure so dont worry about that.

i would think your motor is in good condition. if there was say 10-15psi differences then thats a different story.

do a leakdown test if you really want to be sure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...