Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay there everyone

does anyone one know the power output in kilowatts at the wheels for a standard 1992 R32 GTS-T

I have one but's only making about 140 kilowatts at the wheels and this is with an exhaust,airfilter, 600hp fuel pump and boost settings at about 14 psi, i was told by someone who dynoed it that it's very good for this type of car,

but I reckcon it's not that great. if i want more power i have to buy a aftermarket computer and a bigger intercooler dont know if it's worth it .

I wouldn't mind a gtr but cant afford it

I thinking of selling but not sure if i could get something as good or with more power

any suguestions would be great

cheers: elbs32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57995-power-output/
Share on other sites

I think with a pump that big, it's going to negate everything else by causing the engine to run RICH AS.

You have to have a big front mount if you want to keep the indiction air cool. That woosy little thing that Mr Nissan stuck in there is not going to keep 14psi air cold enough to produce power.

I got 145 out of my RB20DET, at around 10psi. It could be that the engine can't swallow 14psi, so it's not going to run as well.

An after market ECU is worthwhile, as it allows you to lean off the mixtures, which translates to more power. Rather than a GT-R, you could also upgrade the engine to a RB25DET - mine (RB25DET w/VVT, Wolf 3D 4+) is pumping 180 at 4 wheels, which I guestimate at 210 rwkW, 240+ fwkW. And that's on 10psi and 95 octane crap. That's close to a HSV Commonwhore, but done with 2 less cylinders and 3 less litres (but one more camshaft!)

Food for thought.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57995-power-output/#findComment-1114398
Share on other sites

Make sure you have a dump pipe, good IC and cold air intake, then get a Toshi remapped ECU and enjoy a nice 160rwkws odd at 13-14psi.

If you want more power, i suggest you consider how much you like your R32, as its cheaper to just buy a faster car...but if your a glutten for punishment like me then you may do the whole aftermarket ECU, injectors, turbo and still be slow:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57995-power-output/#findComment-1114400
Share on other sites

larger front mount, power fc and a tune up should get you close to 200rwkw. upgrade ur turbo and youll be pullin maybe 230-240rwkw??

You could achieve your goal bit by bit which makes it more possible if your on a budget.

:P

but remember wen upgrading the turbs you gotta do the fuel system as well

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57995-power-output/#findComment-1114481
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...