Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I cant say that the engine will happily rev that hard forever, but the last couple of track days and a skidpan day i have been using about 8,200-8,300rpm (cant remember exactly).

I have my multi stage shift lights set between 7,500 and 8,150rpm. Im amazed how much i need the shift lights as with the external gate and the revs im pulling, my instinct is to grab gears way sooner...as it sounds like its about to take off into orbit. So i shift on the 8,150rpm light...and so far so good...

Though that want at that high a boost level, when i start runnign 20psi, i will pull the rev limit back to abtou 7,500rp, with perhaps one lap where i stretch it out all the way to 8,000rpm.

Quincy, the setup you have is one that is awesome. The power you have is very good and smack on the limit of pump fuel for your displacement from what I have gathered. Any more mods may yield you a little bit more power....but they will be much more expensive and plus youll lose drivability......I decided to stop at the stage im at with my NA block FJ20.....as 230rwkw aint bad on pump and high compression. The money involved in getting more oout of it just aint worth it.....displacement is the key for cheap power!!!

Well DONE again, its da shit!

Edited by 180bfj20det
ive found that my oil pump isnt too happy with me right now, fine metalic in the filter.

have been limiting trips to 8k and running 20w50 oil in the car and she seems to be doing better.

So you think its the oil pump thats causing the swarf in the engine?

When do you think you are going to get the tune / ignition sorted on your car? Im curious to know how much better response you can get ouyt of your turbo setup?

It seems you have about

- 100rwkws @ 4,500rpm

- 160rwkws @ 4,900rpm

- 220rwkws @ 5,500rpm

- 240rwkws @ 6,100rpm

- 280rwkws @ 7,300rpm

Do you think your setup when tweaked will better :

- 195rwkws @ 4,500rpm

- 219rwkws @ 5,000rpm

- 224rwkws @ 5,500rpm

- 234rwkws @ 6,250rpm

Just curious to know how much improvement in response is left in it, and also what boost level you were running when you pulle the 280rwkws?

So you think its the oil pump thats causing the swarf in the engine?

When do you think you are going to get the tune / ignition sorted on your car? Im curious to know how much better response you can get ouyt of your turbo setup?

It seems you have about

- 100rwkws @ 4,500rpm

- 160rwkws @ 4,900rpm

- 220rwkws @ 5,500rpm

- 240rwkws @ 6,100rpm

- 280rwkws @ 7,300rpm

Do you think your setup when tweaked will better :

- 195rwkws @ 4,500rpm 

- 219rwkws @ 5,000rpm 

- 224rwkws @ 5,500rpm

- 234rwkws @ 6,250rpm 

Just curious to know how much improvement in response is left in it, and also what boost level you were running when you pulle the 280rwkws?

yeah i think that the oilpump is culprit because when i drain oil out of the sump its free of metalic where as when i pull the filter it drains off very fine flake......

as far as turbo response its a given that since this is a large turbo on a 20 its gonna be a bit laggy but im almost postive that with more fuel on spool up and some cam tweaking i should get a better response and more power over all.

right now as it stands im not making good power because of the emanage, the ecu has a hot timing map and by using the emanage it just messes it up so that its in the wrong spots on the maps........

ive got a BIKIrom on order from lucas in australia but being in the us means i get to wait for parts........however if i can enrichen the actual fuel map then i should see an even better response and more power under the curve which would make my day.

as for boost when i pulled 288rwkw it was at 17psi, so moderate boost levels with room to go......

Anyone here decreased the diameter of there intake pipes to increase spool time.

As you all know I am getting 1 bar at about 4rpm and not gett max power until 8250rpm. @ 22psi

If I decreased intake from 2 1/4 down to 2 inch would this help response and spool further AND choke the turbo earlier so peak can be made near 7500rpm not 8250rpm.

Cheers

Looking at you r boost curve...im guessing something can be done to improve response based around a better form of boost control. It seems to ramp up onto boost then the gradient slows, when normally its the opposite, isnt it?

I wouldnt go decreasing the diam of pipes though.

Also the dyno says 15psi at 145km/h, thats up around 5,000rpm isnt it?

I friend may have one for sale. I use to have the 10cm housing, i went to an 8cm housing and think its the way to go.

TD06_Plot.jpg

So if your making 260-280rwks , about the limit of the turbo allowing for differences in dynos...then id say there is jack in it with regards to the smaller housing being a restriction on a 2L

If the 8cm housing caused too much back pressure, i dont think the above plots would look like they do.

Its easy to drill and tap the exhaust housing and put a pressure gauge in there to see what the back pressure is....and when your don use the threaded hole for an EGT

And all my talk about the rpm at which my car makes boost, well i dont think its as responsive as the above plot suggests. The above uses a calculation to convert road speed to rpm, and i suspect the data on Dunlops website for the tyres i run is incorrect, or the tyres distort on the rollers chanding the gearing ?!?!?!?

But my dyno run was too the limiter which i think was set at 7,800rpm Using my calc it only goes to 7,000rpm for 182km/h which isnt right.

Next day at the track ill get the data from the data logger so that i can see rpm vs boost for each gear...that is far more accurate rather then converting road speed.

yeah i will be putting a pressure gauge in the manifold to measure back pressure during tuning, to much back pressure = heat and heat = damaged head and valves, not what you want when u have spent a lot of money on the head.

Edited by boostn32

after wanting to burn my car, i have finally got a decent power figure-244rwkw. this is with standard motor, standard cams and cam gears set at 5 degrees advance. my gtr injectors are now at 100% duty cycle, does anyone know what is the maximum duty cycle that is safe to run. i have no idea how to post up the dyno sheet.

after wanting to burn my car, i have finally got a decent power figure-244rwkw. this is with standard motor, standard cams and cam gears set at 5 degrees advance. my gtr injectors are now at 100% duty cycle, does anyone know what is the maximum duty cycle that is safe to run. i have no idea how to post up the dyno sheet.

well over here stateside we like to run ours at about 80-85%, i know some guys in japan and nz will push it up to 95% but thats just too much, the injector needs time to cycle and cool.

right now as it stands im not making good power because of the emanage, the ecu has a hot timing map and by using the emanage it just messes it up so that its in the wrong spots on the maps........

Hi Carl, can you give us any more info on this problem? Are you simply using the EManage to bend the AFM voltages? How much correction do you have loaded? What about ignition timing? Bascially any extra info you have would be useful.

:( cheers :)

PS, I would get the oil tested (Castrol Technical do it), that will tell you what metal it is in the oil filter. It would be nice to know if it's not bearing material.

well over here stateside we like to run ours at about 80-85%, i know some guys in japan and nz will push it up to 95% but thats just too much, the injector needs time to cycle and cool.

well i could probably turn my fuel preasure up and reduce my milli seconds but it will probably stuff up the map. is there any way to do this accurately without putting it back on the dyno?

Hi Carl, can you give us any more info on this problem?  Are you simply using the EManage to bend the AFM voltages?  How much correction do you have loaded?  What about ignition timing?  Bascially any extra info you have would be useful.

:D cheers :D

PS, I would get the oil tested (Castrol Technical do it), that will tell you what metal it is in the oil filter.  It would be nice to know if it's not bearing material.

hehe, yeah there is a place here stateside that will test oil for whats floating around in it......

yeah im using the emanage to fork with the maf signal (which it does do well) but since the ecu has an agressive timing map (actualy on the ecu) forking around with the maf voltage makes it feel terrible if i do it too much.

if i dont use the emanage to correct it runs too lean due to the timing map...... so its a catch 22 untill i can get the biki rom where i can see where i am on the maps.

there isnt that much correction on the map like +10 pts which isnt too terribly much but its enough to fork with the signal enough to really make it feel weird.

from what it looks like i might be able to get full boost at 4k assuming i can add fuel in the right spots (which i cant do with the emanage right now) and it should have a fairly beast/wide power curve if i can get it that way......

i will let you guys know my results tho for sure, because once the car spools its frightenly quick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...