Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Lithius

Dom's car runs dont quote me on this

Gt3071 turbo high mount 40mm external waste gate snd screamer 780cc injectors ,fpr.fmic,3' exhaust loud, forward facing plenum mod,haltec E11V2 ecu ,rb25 box and 5puck clutch and he was running hooser semi slicks

My car

Hks cams ,hks cam gears,hks manifold low mount ,35mm hks external waste gate plumbed back in b4 cat ,fpr,fmic,550cc srad injectors,stabdard air box with hks panel filter and cai to4e turbo but that is the problem dosnt flow enough for engine 2 turner have both stated same thing so must be true hence new turbo on order gt3040r and haltec E11V2 ecu .Both engines running standard bottom ends oh and i ran M/T ET street semi slicks that night to for those times.

BOTH CARS TUNED BY HITMAN

Roy

If you call standard rb20det bottom ends as stock yes both cars are just bolt on's bitl my gearbox is rb25 though both cars are cant see an rb20 box taking that punishment

my clutch is an exceddy puck clutch but organic it being the weakest link in the chain its stuffed now only 2000klm old to :-( Oh well new clutch again .Roy I'd bet you had a lot more wheel spin than ya mate of the line hence ur higher mph speed but his quicker time SARCUSM HERE" just "kick his butt next time you can do it

Cheers Peter

Edited by legend01

Sp whats the verdict with regards to the better type of rubber between the hoosier and M/T???

Ill grab some 15" rims and try and get a tyre with a similar rolling diam as my semi slicks as i dotn want to change my overall gearing. Wrst case can go 15" rim but that requires way too much stuffign around.

I want an 11.999 god damn it...though ill never get it:)

Please run an 11 on a stock RB20:)

I cant recall reading if you are using the std gearbox? What clutch and diff is in the girl.

After the last track day in late October i want to hit the drags, my housemates poo RB25 thingie ran 0.1sec quicker then me, (but 3mph slower) cant have the quickest car in the house being an RB25:)

mine aim is 11 on stock box and rb20

dont think ill be too far off next time i get down there... getting off the line may be the biggest problem

hey roy

i've got some nice 256 poncam sitting next to me.....wanna test them out for me? You reakon a hks 2530 will spool up earlier with these cams?

btw you reakon the rb20 box with break with slicks on the rear???

Hi waldo

the .82 its the housing im waiting on garrett "say " they dont have any in the country at the moment

dude,

the A/R .82 on a GT3040R is way too big for an RB20DET, it will be too laggy. you'll see full boost b/w 4600-5000rpm, not ideal for a street car.

fyi, the turbo itself is too big given the size of the comp wheel. i'd recommend a GT30R with a .63, much better combination for a 2L engine.

i had a GT3040R on my engine (2L YBD sierra cosworth) with an A/R .63 and it was still laggy. full boost ~24psi was at 4200rpm with a very fast ramp up, hence - plenty of wheel spin.

just my 2c, but it's up to you.

hey roy

i've got some nice 256 poncam sitting next to me.....wanna test them out for me? You reakon a hks 2530 will spool up earlier with these cams?

btw you reakon the rb20 box with break with slicks on the rear???

I have no idea, but general consensus is that a small cam upgrade like the 256 poncams will see good results in mid and top end

As for gearboxes...i think it depends a lot on your driving styles :O

Will be no different to the plain bearing to4 im using now

but thanks

              peter

and you're happy with that?

then why change turbo's?

fyi, a properly setup engine with the GT30R (A/R .63) will be able to make up to 300rwkw with much less lag than what you're used to but anyway, again it's up to you.

just some info i found out last night when speaking to my friend (tuner/engine builder for PET Modifications) about RB20DET's, he told me that they built an RB20DET a few years back with forgies, uprated rod bolts, slight headwork, cams, Autronic, etc and managed to get 388rwkw out of it.

this thing was running a garrett T66 (with P-trim exhaust wheel) and lots of boost and was quite laggy, but none the less the power was made which i was amazed with. i didn't think RB20DET's could flow that well.

so RB20DET's aren't all that gutless after all, have a nice weekend ;-)

Come on ... dont be a tease, more details:)

What boost does it need to make that power, what does it drive liek, what other mods...and most importantly. How long have you been making the power for, and have you been giving it grief or looking after it at that power level???

cerbera.. where do you plan to lose 1sec from your previous best time?

Another 60+hp from 5psi more boost, power fc tune, new cooler etc etc. My car now with the pfc makes 1 bar of boost at 3500 instead of 4700+ than when i ran my 12.8 with the remap. Also hopefully a slightly faster 60" time :D

Its my aim... I'm not saying I'm going to be able to do it, I'll be happy with very low 12's for the moment

  • 4 weeks later...

Yeh it did 530atw on subzeros dyno last month on 35psi

but had issues at autosalon only running 25psi if pete turns it up it looses power, i no a fair bit about it as i have the same mechanic and i helped do a little work on it

it blew a no1 piston half track at jambo and was over 90mph at the half track mark so its going to run 10's i would say who knows maybe quicker

Edited by SLYAS 33

im hoping to be in this elite group soon....ive got a fmic, haltek e11, and my turbo rebuilt with t04 specs (been informed its good for 400hp) which all goes in in a few weeks, ive also replaced the fuel pump with a 210 L/ph pump...ive just done my clutch also, an exceedy ceramic gtr button which im hoping will handle the power...i hope hehe ive also got a set of tien fully adjustables going in on wednesday...ive heard they r pretty good...so im pretty excited, cant wait to get it on the road :D

does anyone want to have a guesstimate on the power ill be making?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...