Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK its been a long time since i made a post, but just an update, i have all my engine parts back from the machine shop and im still aiming to crack 300rwkw. it may seen like a big ask but i know it is possible.

I do have to say to all that want near 280 - 300rwkw it is not cheap at all. but it is very interesting in trying to make good power out of the RB20. Sure i could of gone a RB25 or one of the other combos and it would of been a lot easier but that wouldnt be a challange.

It seems like im almost there with the build and then i need to spend more money. Its taken a while but im about 2 weeks away from the first start up of my new engine. and then its only a matter of running the engine in and then seeing what it can do.

Edited by boostn32
So whats your cold starts like with the fcon silver gts-t? mine has very doughy throttle response until its atleast had a couple minutes to warm up.

actually start up is perfect..

when i turn the car off it has a habit of running for 2secs then shutting down after the keys are out sometimes..

also it needs more revs in lower gears, used to be able to slow down to 1200rpm in second and just press the accelerator, now if i do it i get a bunny hop effect.. and in 1st its the same under 1500rpm

Yeh BD4s use one of those thingie type dynos too. They were saying it reads a bit higher then that other type of dyno thingie that most places use...i really dont know what im talking about:)

yeh the dyno is a different type, they really spare no expense with their facilities..

also it needs more revs in lower gears, used to be able to slow down to 1200rpm in second and just press the accelerator, now if i do it i get a bunny hop effect.. and in 1st its the same under 1500rpm

I have the same problem too.

Do you have bigger injectors? I was told that it could be because at low duty cycles/rpm they open too much casuing a hop/jerking effect.

Cheers.

I have the same problem too.

Do you have bigger injectors? I was told that it could be because at low duty cycles/rpm they open too much casuing a hop/jerking effect.

Cheers.

Shouldnt be at all related to injectors if its tuned correctly

The car should be like factory.

Mine was with 740's

not an rb20 but i've been driving my mates sr20 silvia with hks gt2835r, he has 750cc injectors with a pfc tuned by lumpy,

runs and idles and drives perfectly on and off boost at any revs

think that would be cause of the power fc?

so tempting to gank his turbo haha but still need an ecu for the old redtop

ahh well i'll get there one day

Awesome Boostn32, care to share the specs? :(

I will share specs once the power level is reached, i will say it has Arias forgies, HKS cams undisclosed specs, microtech, 700cc injectors, custom plenum, atm it will have a trust TD06 turbo kit but will be upgraded.

I will share specs once the power level is reached, i will say it has Arias forgies, HKS cams undisclosed specs, microtech, 700cc injectors, custom plenum, atm it will have a trust TD06 turbo kit but will be upgraded.

are you using standard rods?

you setup sounds simmilar to what ive got going right now.....results will be interesting.

Hey guys..just thought my effort was worth posting...

93 R32 GTS-t using completely STOCK (un-chipped) computer and stock auto transmission i got 208.1 RWKW at 1.4 BAR

other mods are

Cat back 3" zorst

front mount incooler

os gieken adj cam gear (exh only)

Arias Forged pistons 20thou ovesize

ported and polished heads

1mm oversize valves

match ported manifolds

ported exhaust manifold

high flowed VG30 Turbo

Sard Adj Fuel Reg

Fully balanced bottom end

AVCR boost ctrl

k&n flat panel filter

standard injectors

GTR Fuel pump

so after a manual conversion some injectors and a power FC should maybe hit around the 260 RWKW...

i am surprised at the stock computer getting this far..well done NISSAN !!

I had mine dynoed again on Dr Drifts brand new dyno on friday night....

DSC01347c.JPG

208.8rwkw at 16.5psi.

However, the stock actuator on the R34 GTT highflow turbo is only rated at 7pounds (i think) so it can't hold boost properly and it spikes badly to almost 19psi. On cold days (low ambient temps) it spikes even worse so i'm looking at changing to a HKS GTRS pretty soon. or as soon as funds allow.

Mods are the usual:

Z32 airflow meter

Nismo 555cc injectors

Full 3" exhaust

K&N pod

Dr Drift remapped stock ecu

HKS type S intercooler

R34 GTT highflow

Bosch 040 fuel pump

I think thats it.....

any comments? :mellow:

you want my advice??

ditch the dr drift ecu..

get a pfc

gain 10rwkw

how much have you spent on tuning with sam? and the chip itself?

i spent over $700 hours and hours altogether and all i had was a badly tuned car with a start up problem, an idle problem and detonation, he kept insisting it wasnt the sofware but the AFM, i plugged in the HKS fcon and probelm seemed to disappear??

now sam is an ok guy, never stated that he wouldnt fix it, but im in sydney and i couldnt wait for him to come back and forth..

in conclusion if your in melb maybe it aint so bad, but anywhere else dont bother!

not worth saving a few $$ get it done right the first time! not just a remapp that plays with timing and fuel etc

i paid almost $700 on tuning the Fcon alone and would gladly pay it again rarther than $300 on tuning the remap

I had mine dynoed again on Dr Drifts brand new dyno on friday night....

DSC01347c.JPG

208.8rwkw at 16.5psi.

However, the stock actuator on the R34 GTT highflow turbo is only rated at 7pounds (i think) so it can't hold boost properly and it spikes badly to almost 19psi. On cold days (low ambient temps) it spikes even worse so i'm looking at changing to a HKS GTRS pretty soon. or as soon as funds allow.

Mods are the usual:

Z32 airflow meter

Nismo 555cc injectors

Full 3" exhaust

K&N pod

Dr Drift remapped stock ecu

HKS type S intercooler

R34 GTT highflow

Bosch 040 fuel pump

I think thats it.....

any comments?  :mellow:

you want my advice??

ditch the dr drift ecu..

get a pfc

gain 10rwkw

how much have you spent on tuning with sam? and the chip itself?

i spent over $700 hours and hours altogether and all i had was a badly tuned car with a start up problem, an idle problem and detonation, he kept insisting it wasnt the sofware but the AFM, i plugged in the HKS fcon and probelm seemed to disappear??

now sam is an ok guy, never stated that he wouldnt fix it, but im in sydney and i couldnt wait for him to come back and forth..

in conclusion if your in melb maybe it aint so bad, but anywhere else dont bother!

not worth saving a few $$ get it done right the first time! not just a remapp that plays with timing and fuel etc

i paid almost $700 on tuning the Fcon alone and would gladly pay it again rarther than $300 on tuning the remap

thanks for your ideas.

I didn't go the pfc as i was hoping that it would be cheaper to get it remapped - this was more than a year ago.

I do have a few problems with the tune but Sam says he will fix them with out any extra cost, so i don't have a problem with that.

If i was to get a PFC now it would obviously be like paying twice for the same thing, so i will stick with the remap.

He's got new laptop tuning software now, so he says it far easier to tune than before, he's promised to have another look to see if theres any improvements to be had.

I don't think a PFC can gain more power than a remap, its all in the tune and my a/f ratios are at a level i consider safe. There's nothing wrong with remaps themselves - just think of the Mines jap ecu's.

Cheers. :mellow:

mine's arnt the best example of a remap, and sam used his new software on my car.. no one could figure out the probelm, not even the software designer..

its up to you what you do in the end how much u can afford etc,,

if you managed to get a year out of the remap then cut your loses...

really!!!!!!!!!!!1 think about it! also remember that even if you get a pfc, ap engineering fc are in demand and a second hand one you could always sell easily in the end

u tried turning the boost down??

the graph looks mega rich!

and i dont thing a pfc will give u that much

look for about 230ish

post-8646-1139292736.jpgHey guys..just thought my effort was worth posting...

93 R32 GTS-t using completely STOCK (un-chipped) computer and stock auto transmission i got 208.1 RWKW at 1.4 BAR

other mods are

Cat back 3" zorst

front mount incooler

os gieken adj cam gear (exh only)

Arias Forged pistons 20thou ovesize

ported and polished heads

1mm oversize valves

match ported manifolds

ported exhaust manifold

high flowed VG30 Turbo

Sard Adj Fuel Reg

Fully balanced bottom end

AVCR boost ctrl

k&n flat panel filter

standard injectors

GTR Fuel pump

so after a manual conversion some injectors and a power FC should maybe hit around the 260 RWKW...

i am surprised at the stock computer getting this far..well done NISSAN !!

edit: added ur graph

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...