Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Turbine

I not sure of what the rev's were at 150klms though full boost was reached by 6000rpm and max power where it carried through to rev cut at 7700rpm so id have to say it would be around the mid to high 6grand mark

Roy

Thanks ,Dont wanna aim to high just breaking into the 11 second bracket would be a feat in itself but it would be good wouldnt it an 11.5 :P

jnr32r

Tyres i run are mickey tompson ET street 26x10.50 I drive there with them on, there dot approved

Cheers Peter

Edited by legend01
Hi Guys latest update

New exhaust is on and retuned made a little more power but what its got now is how it stays thinks its past the limits of the standard plenum. Heres lastest dyno done this afternoon.

post-7066-1143095593.jpg

awesome power there Peter, congrats.

i noticed your Intake Temp is pretty high.

Thank You

Yes it was but Ive put alot of that down to 2 hours on the dyno fist couple runs it was around the 37deg mark then started to climb . I want to do some testing on that but at the moment just enjoy the car the way it is for the moment

Cheers Peter

Hey pete i got the same turbo external 3040r (.63) however no cams but a custom plenum and i made 270 at 22psi.

i thought the bigger ex housing would have been laggier than that mine comes on about 5100 did the cams do much to bring it on earlier?

cheers

Andrew

I would say yes as they allow more air through but the porting and polish of the head would help that along as well .Have you posted a dyno graph would like to check it out, mines abit of a weird curve

Cheers Peter

Edited by legend01

The idea behind the bigger exh. housing is to allow less back pressure.

Less backpressure = higher volumetric efficiency at high rpm.

In otherwords, less backpressure = better cylinder filling = less boost required to make the same power.

no havent posted a graph didnt even get a printout.. pretty much jus a ski jump straight up and holds the whole way to rev limit 7800.

We were gonna keep turning up boost to see how far the stock 20 woul go but ran outtta fuel.

To be honest it's a bit to laggy for me at first i didnt mind but it makes it hard for me to do what i need it to id love it to come on 1000 earlier. thats why i asked bout the cams .

My theory was cams and race fuel with a really aggresive ignition advance might bring it down to the 4000 mark.

Hmmm, well since you've got the smaller .63 exhaust housing,cams and maybe a bit of porting may help but to get down to 4000rpm is a bit of an ask I think as it's a big turbo on a little RB20 . still stranger things have happened 12 months ago our power level was considered unrealistic but there's a few rb20's there now .

Did your's from memoey flatten out like mine does when it reached max power ? Would still like to resolve that issue a bit latter on though

Cheers Peter

Can adding cams do much to bring the boost threshold down? at the moment i get full boost at 4700rpm (garret GT25R 0.64) and would be awesome to be able to bring it down to around 4200rpm. is that realistic? I already have the cams, they are HKS 264's with 9mm lift but i havent installed them yet as i wanted to see what is was like without them first. Also if i install these cams do i have to upgrade the valvesprings if i dont rev the engine any harder? current rev limit is 7500rpm & have had no issues with valve bounce so far.

Cheers.

Can adding cams do much to bring the boost threshold down? at the moment i get full boost at 4700rpm (garret GT25R 0.64) and would be awesome to be able to bring it down to around 4200rpm. is that realistic? I already have the cams, they are HKS 264's with 9mm lift but i havent installed them yet as i wanted to see what is was like without them first. Also if i install these cams do i have to upgrade the valvesprings if i dont rev the engine any harder? current rev limit is 7500rpm & have had no issues with valve bounce so far.

Cheers.

I would be very doubtful that cams alone will give you that sort of change.

I would assume a change in exhaust housing whould do much more...and i saw about a 300-400rpm improvement going to a much smaller exhaust housing.

In all seriousness, if you are not going to use the cams then PM me...if i have the coin i would be very interested in them as im wanting some cams so that i can run a bit more boost.

Otherwise, give them a try and see how they go...but even with a good tune i would say you will be lucky to brign it down 300rpm, thats provided there isnt anything wrong with the current tune

Cheers for your advice, i think ill try installing them & see what happens. ive seen various results with guys using cams & cam gears to dial in a fatter midrange or top end by advancing/retarding the cam gears. hopefully it will bring it down slightly, even 300rpm would be great as where the power comes in now it is quite hard to drive in a drift enviroment & you have to be fairly ruthless with it wich has resulted in several broken gearboxes. Current tune is good, definately not the problem & i'm happy with the power output (258rwkw) just i bit more responce would be nice :ermm:

Edited by Drift_Mulisha

speaking to my new work mate the other day I found out that his 32 made it's 320rwkw on its low boost setting 1.6 bar

when they wound it up to 1.8 it just wheel span once it came on to boost

mmmmmm cant wait for my ride in it.

His dog box is still at ppg after break in the second night he had it.

mmmmm 2.3lt + T88 laggy city has a new king 6,000rpm boost come on

Hi Guys

Ran the car at wsid on wednesday night but was having trouble hooking up . Was running M/T et street radials and was still having traction issues !st ,2nd and a little in 3rd still. Ran a 12.4,12.3 and a 12.2 and on the last run since times were geting better really put some heat into the tyre's but low and behold broke a drive axle on the line .Mph was up now running 116mph but 60ft times were woful couldnt get better than a 2.000 so give it a couple weeks and have another go at that elusive 11 second pass

Cheers Peter

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Back from the dead. My thing finally got to turn its wheels in anger again.

It hadnt been driven for over a year, and i didnt get a chance to put the oil cooler back on, but changed the oil, drove 200kms, changed the oil and filter again and went racing. 3 days of abuse and plenty of 8 something rev limit and Sunday afternoon at 1.5bar at Sandown and the thing lived to tell the tale.

No blow by, no pinging, no problem it seems. Only did one flat out lap at a time because was worried about temps, but have to kind of laugh that it loved the 1.5bar....

Going to change the oil this weekend and send it off to Castrol to see if the sample has coolant/particles etc in it.

Back from the dead. My thing finally got to turn its wheels in anger again.

It hadnt been driven for over a year, and i didnt get a chance to put the oil cooler back on, but changed the oil, drove 200kms, changed the oil and filter again and went racing. 3 days of abuse and plenty of 8 something rev limit and Sunday afternoon at 1.5bar at Sandown and the thing lived to tell the tale.

No blow by, no pinging, no problem it seems. Only did one flat out lap at a time because was worried about temps, but have to kind of laugh that it loved the 1.5bar....

Going to change the oil this weekend and send it off to Castrol to see if the sample has coolant/particles etc in it.

the silver bullet lives on after hibernation ;-)

good stuff dude, good to see the car is back in action again.

i'm dying to see it in anger.

Who ever said the rb20 couldnt make the numbers eh? if i remeber correctly your running an f-con right silver? did you get the navigator with it?

i recently had my car tuned aswell. banged out 220rwkw@14psi before we ran into missfire issues and couldnt push anymore boost into it.. splitfires here we come!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
    • What ECU are you running? This is probably the biggest question. If it's a PowerFC, I'd probably change the ECU and get something newer that will handle the injectors in a nicer way.
×
×
  • Create New...