Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

those of you who have dont this can i ask what was done to the lower control arm as the standard one is too long??

To long in relation to what Matt??? Last time i checked it all bolts in once that steering arm plate comes off the lower control arm..

Too long???? Just fine on my car. Ya just need to wind out the tie rod ends a bit and she'll be fine. Another thing you may find you need to do is drill out where the tie rod goes through the stub axle as r30's have a straight joint and the s13 one is tapered, so ya need to clear out the taper.

i keep being told the lower control arms on the r30 are too long and i will need to have new shorter ones fabricated??have you guys physicilly done the conversion?

Yerp its in both our cars, i'll be driving mine again tomorrow, why do they say you need shorter control arms?

thanks guys thats all i needed to know.

How ya going with it Matt?? Get it done yet???

Stagefumer : piece of piss mate prolly easiest thing i've done on the car, but i bought them off of my mate who had them in his R30 so it was a straight swap for me hehe :P

How ya going with it Matt??  Get it done yet???

Stagefumer : piece of piss mate prolly easiest thing i've done on the car, but i bought them off of my mate who had them in his R30 so it was a straight swap for me hehe :P

from what i remember, the dr's have diffrent mounting spaces comared the the hr30's ? ami right. because im in dire need of a upgrade.

from what i remember, the dr's have diffrent mounting spaces comared the the hr30's ? ami right. because im in dire need of a upgrade.

are you talking about the calipar mounting? i think there the same its the rotors and caliparsthat are different. have you throught of going to the r32 booster and master cylinder as they were fitted to my hr30 when the engine went in and i've never had a peddel feel the way this does now, i do have brand new slotted DBA's and bendix comp x pads and they pull the HR up very quickly. looking forward to the gtst brakes though....

  • 3 weeks later...
yeah it has been something ive been looking at. in theory with vented rotors they should not get brake fade at all, in any instant. i guess maybe my fluids could need replaing. (havnt done since ive had it 2-3 years)

Thats not a true theory at all, you will still have brake fade, it will most likely be in your pads/fluid before you start to experience rotor's overheating...

I had my car in anger for the first time in the hills on christmas day and i have to say im impressed with the GTS-t calipers!! The run i did i used to have my standard brakes over heated half way along it, but the GTS-t's just kept pulling me up time after time! Funny thing is the pads that are in it are cheap $30 bendix things, so i can't wait to upgrade the pads/fluid and see how it goes!!

Matt have you done this conversion yet or what???

i believe so but with larger disks and different calipars. the short answer to the mounting ? is no...also the gts-t rotors are quite a bit thicker than the hr and the dr rotors...you might be able to use the r31 import struts to get around this as you can fit the gts-t rotors and calipars to them....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...