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DIY Changing Clutch

leech_

By leech_,
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leech_ Grand Master

leech_

Posted
Posted

Hey guys i was wondering if anyone has a basic DIY for changing the clutch and if they dont just some basic things to look out for. I have a feeling that my thrust bearing may need replacing but obviously to get to that i need to get to the clutch. So yea we did it on my sr20 before but that seemed alot easier than what this will be. anyways if you could help out i would appreciate it

oh its a rb25det from a s2 r33

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Jengi Collaborator

Jengi

Posted
Posted

It's really easy providing you've got a hoist (for g/box) and IS time consuming ..

Slightly more awkward than the SR as theres a little less room to work around the bell housing/bolts but .

Disconnect your battery

Start with the usual and remove the gearstick (circlip) then unbolt the prop shaft and have a catch can handy for all the box oil that will drain out of the rear, you might want to re-use this oil also.

Loosen the frontpipe off the exhaust system also which provides a little bit of leaverage to allow the engine to rock.

At this point I'd advise using your hoist under the gearbox to support the weight while you remove the bolts around the gearbox mount. Then slowly, lower the hoist which will allow easy access in undo-ing all the sensor wiring off the gearbox. Use a small flathead screwdriver for this as they can be very hard and brittle after many years in the land of nippon. :rolleyes:

At this point the hoist should be supporting the entirety of the weight apart from the bell housing. Undo all the bolts off the bell housing and push the starter motor aside.

There is limited room to actually wiggle the box out like I mentioned before so be careful with this and do not force it. You'll find that it'll be necessary to slightly roll the box around a few degrees to clear the starter motor housing of the firewall (on the bell housing as you probably know).

At this point the box should literally drop out slowly as you lower the hoist. Then simply roll the hoist back to remove the box completely and presto, it's done.

If you want any specifics let me know :P

leech_ Grand Master

leech_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey jengi thanks heaps for the advise that sounds like the majority of what i needed to know :rolleyes:

yea taking the sr20 apart was a bit of a bitch the way we did it eg no hoist lol we wont be making that mistake again.

and once again cheers Jengi really appreciate the help

  • 2 weeks later...
Bleach1 Proficient

Bleach1

Posted
Posted

I have done a handful of skyline clutches on the ground. I just advise anyone of concidering doing their clutch without a hoist. The box is quite heavy and large on a skyline and it really just isnt worth the pain and well danger of doing it under the car, from now on i will only do them on a hoist with a trans stand.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

I do them on the ground all the time , this is what i do .

Jack the car as high as possible , put stands on all corners then do all the unbolting as jengi posted , i let the gear oil out of the box first though . When all the bolts are undone , i leave a couple on the bellhousing , i use a trolley jack , on the gtr or any 4wd i tie the the box to the jack ( use chain ) ,undo the last 2 bolts on the bellhousing , then lower the box to the ground . If i have clearence problem ( getting it out from under the car ) , i either get another jack and jack the car heigher or i drop the box on a little creaper like trolley and bring out like that .

Of course if you have a hoist and a transmission jack its heaps easier .

  • Thanks 1
  • 4 months later...
wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
I'm thinking of changing my clutch in the next few weeks. Few quick questions...

Do you need a special tool to align the clutch?  

How many litres of fluid does the transmission need?

How long would you expect it to take?

You do need something , a broken shaft will do the job .

Trany takes about 3.8 lts .

Time depends on your skills and tools you have .

«Cyph3r» Experienced

«Cyph3r»

Posted
Posted

Done this before.... 1st time was piss when we didn't change the clutch. As soon as you move the clutch plates and have to realign them and its multi plates it gets tricky.....esp when ur doing it on the ground. We had trouble getting the spline to go through the plates as we could'nt get the angle right.... got the old man to come up and help and went through 1st go :confused:

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Cheers.

Also, I'm thinking of just changing the clutch plate. Is this worth the effort or should I replace it with a whole new kit? I dont really want the pedal to feel heavier than stock...

Why you want to change the "just the clutch plate " , is the clutch slipping ? if yes dont bother do a complete job , if no dont bother taking it out until it starts slipping .

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
by clutch plate do you mean the thrust bearing ??? if so i would do it thats the only reason i was going to drop the box out to replace that but i have since realised it is not worth the effort.

Thrust bearing is just that a bearing , clutch plate is the round thing with the friction material on it , so no 2 different things .

riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
Posted
Why you want to change the "just the clutch plate " , is the clutch slipping ? if yes dont bother do a complete job  , if no dont bother taking it out until it starts slipping .

Obviously its slipping. Even in 5th at 100km/h, before it makes full boost, it slips.

After doing some reading it seems that changing just the clutch plate provides more 'bite' while retaining the factory feel of the pedal (and its cheaper). Is this true?

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Obviously its slipping. Even in 5th at 100km/h, before it makes full boost, it slips.  

After doing some reading it seems that changing just the clutch plate provides more 'bite' while retaining the factory feel of the pedal (and its cheaper). Is this true?

If it slips , bite the bulet take the box off and replace the whole thing .

You dont have to use a different pressure plate , you can use a Nissan one if you like ( i wouldnt though ) .

By just changing the clutch plate now , you are going to have to pull the box down again to replce the pressure plate , clutch plate and thrust bearing very soon.

The reason its slipping worn clutch plate and pressure plate or to much power if not stock.

  • 1 year later...
R33 Eddy Proficient

R33 Eddy

Posted
Posted

ok sounds hard but eazy at the same time to change the clutch.

atm i only have the money to get a decent clutch and dont have money to pay someone to install a clutch.

when dropping out the gear box does it slide off the drive shaft or dose it stay connected and it just dropps down to give you access to the clutch??

if someone has pics of what to undo would be help full or a site that gives more details

thanks

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