Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i was wondering if anyone has a basic DIY for changing the clutch and if they dont just some basic things to look out for. I have a feeling that my thrust bearing may need replacing but obviously to get to that i need to get to the clutch. So yea we did it on my sr20 before but that seemed alot easier than what this will be. anyways if you could help out i would appreciate it

oh its a rb25det from a s2 r33

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58320-diy-changing-clutch/
Share on other sites

It's really easy providing you've got a hoist (for g/box) and IS time consuming ..

Slightly more awkward than the SR as theres a little less room to work around the bell housing/bolts but .

Disconnect your battery

Start with the usual and remove the gearstick (circlip) then unbolt the prop shaft and have a catch can handy for all the box oil that will drain out of the rear, you might want to re-use this oil also.

Loosen the frontpipe off the exhaust system also which provides a little bit of leaverage to allow the engine to rock.

At this point I'd advise using your hoist under the gearbox to support the weight while you remove the bolts around the gearbox mount. Then slowly, lower the hoist which will allow easy access in undo-ing all the sensor wiring off the gearbox. Use a small flathead screwdriver for this as they can be very hard and brittle after many years in the land of nippon. :rolleyes:

At this point the hoist should be supporting the entirety of the weight apart from the bell housing. Undo all the bolts off the bell housing and push the starter motor aside.

There is limited room to actually wiggle the box out like I mentioned before so be careful with this and do not force it. You'll find that it'll be necessary to slightly roll the box around a few degrees to clear the starter motor housing of the firewall (on the bell housing as you probably know).

At this point the box should literally drop out slowly as you lower the hoist. Then simply roll the hoist back to remove the box completely and presto, it's done.

If you want any specifics let me know :P

hey jengi thanks heaps for the advise that sounds like the majority of what i needed to know :rolleyes:

yea taking the sr20 apart was a bit of a bitch the way we did it eg no hoist lol we wont be making that mistake again.

and once again cheers Jengi really appreciate the help

  • 2 weeks later...

I have done a handful of skyline clutches on the ground. I just advise anyone of concidering doing their clutch without a hoist. The box is quite heavy and large on a skyline and it really just isnt worth the pain and well danger of doing it under the car, from now on i will only do them on a hoist with a trans stand.

I do them on the ground all the time , this is what i do .

Jack the car as high as possible , put stands on all corners then do all the unbolting as jengi posted , i let the gear oil out of the box first though . When all the bolts are undone , i leave a couple on the bellhousing , i use a trolley jack , on the gtr or any 4wd i tie the the box to the jack ( use chain ) ,undo the last 2 bolts on the bellhousing , then lower the box to the ground . If i have clearence problem ( getting it out from under the car ) , i either get another jack and jack the car heigher or i drop the box on a little creaper like trolley and bring out like that .

Of course if you have a hoist and a transmission jack its heaps easier .

  • Thanks 1
  • 4 months later...
I'm thinking of changing my clutch in the next few weeks. Few quick questions...

Do you need a special tool to align the clutch?  

How many litres of fluid does the transmission need?

How long would you expect it to take?

You do need something , a broken shaft will do the job .

Trany takes about 3.8 lts .

Time depends on your skills and tools you have .

Done this before.... 1st time was piss when we didn't change the clutch. As soon as you move the clutch plates and have to realign them and its multi plates it gets tricky.....esp when ur doing it on the ground. We had trouble getting the spline to go through the plates as we could'nt get the angle right.... got the old man to come up and help and went through 1st go :confused:

Cheers.

Also, I'm thinking of just changing the clutch plate. Is this worth the effort or should I replace it with a whole new kit? I dont really want the pedal to feel heavier than stock...

Why you want to change the "just the clutch plate " , is the clutch slipping ? if yes dont bother do a complete job , if no dont bother taking it out until it starts slipping .

by clutch plate do you mean the thrust bearing ??? if so i would do it thats the only reason i was going to drop the box out to replace that but i have since realised it is not worth the effort.

Thrust bearing is just that a bearing , clutch plate is the round thing with the friction material on it , so no 2 different things .

Why you want to change the "just the clutch plate " , is the clutch slipping ? if yes dont bother do a complete job  , if no dont bother taking it out until it starts slipping .

Obviously its slipping. Even in 5th at 100km/h, before it makes full boost, it slips.

After doing some reading it seems that changing just the clutch plate provides more 'bite' while retaining the factory feel of the pedal (and its cheaper). Is this true?

Obviously its slipping. Even in 5th at 100km/h, before it makes full boost, it slips.  

After doing some reading it seems that changing just the clutch plate provides more 'bite' while retaining the factory feel of the pedal (and its cheaper). Is this true?

If it slips , bite the bulet take the box off and replace the whole thing .

You dont have to use a different pressure plate , you can use a Nissan one if you like ( i wouldnt though ) .

By just changing the clutch plate now , you are going to have to pull the box down again to replce the pressure plate , clutch plate and thrust bearing very soon.

The reason its slipping worn clutch plate and pressure plate or to much power if not stock.

  • 1 year later...

ok sounds hard but eazy at the same time to change the clutch.

atm i only have the money to get a decent clutch and dont have money to pay someone to install a clutch.

when dropping out the gear box does it slide off the drive shaft or dose it stay connected and it just dropps down to give you access to the clutch??

if someone has pics of what to undo would be help full or a site that gives more details

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...