Jump to content
SAU Community

Intercooler & Intercooler Kits?? Questions??


Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

Hey, I’m after people’s feedback on what intercoolers (FMIC) they have installed on their cars specifically on the Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T and what modifications they had to do to install them. Such as:

ic_image.jpgpiping_on.jpg

- Cut The Front Bar?

- Cut a hole for the return pipe on the side of the engine bay?

- Did You Have to cut the fan blades for the return pipe when it goes over the engine?

- Was the R33 GTS-T Series 1 Or Series 2?

- If it was a Series 1 R33 What front bar did it have on it? (Type S or M)

These are the kits i have been looking at...with some of these kits a have some specific questions for people who have installed them, any other brands please feel free to suggest them as well :P

Hybrid (Genuine)

- Did you have to cut the fan blades to fit the return pipe?

- Did all the pipes line up correctly?

Trust / Greddy

- Which kit was purchased?

- Did you get the cooler with the return piping or the one that goes over the engine?

- Did you have to cut the fan blades to fit the return pipe?

Blitz

- What front bar did you install the kit on??

- Was it the LM model intercooler kit?? if so did it all line up?

- Did the return pipe from the blitz lm kit stick out from the bottom of the bar??

Custom (Melbourne People)

- What size and piping options where available?

- What type of intercooler core was used??

- Where was the work done?? Where you happy with the job?

I have looked at a lot of threads and info on the forums about intercooler kits etc, i have seen a lot of people install specific kits that they were happy with but never had any little write-ups on the kit or intercooler they had.

Hopefully this thread will help me with my choice and aid others when they are ready to get one in the future.

Cheers Rob

P.S i have heard mixed stores with specific brand kits with cutting fan blades and other items that people have different opinions on which if i install it myself i want to know 100% what needs cutting etc.

I jus fitted a Hybrid FMIC on my R33, had to cut hole in right guard for pipe, cut fan blades to fit the pipe over the engine, swapped reinforcement bars with a mate who had it already cut out for the cooler and GTR front bar, took most of the day, but looks sweet and all pipes lined up perfectly

- Cut The Front Bar?

Yes had to cut front bar and remove the innards

- Cut a hole for the return pipe on the side of the engine bay?

had to, just below water tank. no problems

- Did You Have to cut the fan blades for the return pipe when it goes over the engine?

not required as return pipe cleared fan ok

- Was the R33 GTS-T Series 1 Or Series 2?

series 2

Custom (Melbourne People)

- What size and piping options where available?

2.5" pipes, supplied by workshop. stainless steel

- What type of intercooler core was used??

no idea. just a hybrid model one it looks like. its an intercooler, it cools

the core isnt the normal 600x300 size its a bit smaller

ive only lost a tiny of of low end after fitting it

only mods are pod filter

- Where was the work done?? Where you happy with the job?

chasers in kensington. very good work. 6 hours work.

good price. price included, all fitting, pipes, core and labour

Trust / Greddy

- Which kit was purchased?

Trust V-SPL intercooler kit, comes with detailed instructions and all necessary clamps and fittings 600*300*65 I think, or was it 75

easy enough to install yourself if you dont mind drilling a hole in the engine bay

- Did you get the cooler with the return piping or the one that goes over the engine?

The kit requires you to drill a hole on the driver side engine bay for the return pipe and the pipe goes over the radiator fan.

- Did you have to cut the fan blades to fit the return pipe?

You dont have to cut the fan blades but there is small section of a thermo fan bracket located in front of the radiator that needs to be trimmed off so that it does not rub againts the back of the intercooler as well as a small section of the bumper support but thats no biggy with some elbow grease a big hacksaw

I was told the kit is the same for series 1 and 2

The instructions that came with it was for a series 1

My car is a series 2 and I had to trim the front bar quite a bit, but it fits nice and tight

I have a Blitz Lm intercooler kit which i just installed on my Series 2 R33.

The piping lined up perfectly, and i mean perfectly, not like some of the hybrid kit i've encountered. The return pipe inder the cooler stick out from the front bar by about 20mm or so, but i have a stock series 2 front bar and if u get an a/m one the pipe shouldnt hang below it. I had to cut a but off the back of the front bar and the support bar, but nothin a bit of angle grinding cant handle.

This cooler is one of the best coolers u can get for street use(not drag applications), the pipe from the cooler to intake manifold is sooo cold, even when driven hard. My previous trust vspl was not as effective in cooling the air as this one, and my mate's hybrid..well let's just say for the price it's alright, but u get what u pay for.

bought a used hks front mount kit

return pipe needed hole cutting below water bottle, no probs, just lined the metal on the bodywork with some fuel pipe that i split and pushed onto the metal, this is so that the return pipe does not bang on the metal work at all, had some slight knocking issues to begin with.

no fan blades needed cutting, seemed to clear ok, but the return pipe is just touching the radiator feed pipe, i'm sure this is not very good, and is bleeding heat into the return pipe... will need to sort at some point

yet lots of cutting of the front bar to do, although i used a hand grinder ( 4" ) with a thin metal wheel, and it makes cutting the bar REALLY easy, its also easy to make decent radius cuts as well ...

i made up a couple of metal brackets to support the fmic, just used holes in the box chassis, then bolts into the side bracket points on the fmic, if the mount lugs are on the bottom of the ic, then a simple mode to extent this to under it would be easy ...

i did all this in a full days worth of work, the largest portion of time was cutting out the front bar, and making it look reasonably good ... other than that, only really basic garage tools are needed, and a grinder (one of the most all round useful tools i ever purchased) grinders are also pretty cheap ... $80 or so gets you a reasonable bosh one from bunnings !

let me know if you have any questions, i can email some pics if needed

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...