Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i'm tossing up between the r33 and r32, did some research on the r33's, now for the r32's, i was wondering what kinda power figures and quarter mile times a lightly modded r32 is capable of?

mods would include, pod, front mount, full exhaust, and a tune, and boosted on the standard turbo, a few ppl have been telling me that the rb20's in standard trim dont have much torque, would this kinda of set up help much with the torque issue? cause i like my cars with some torque and if the r32's dont fill my needs then i'll just spend a bit more and get the r33, will be waiting for ur advice guys, thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59283-info-on-lightly-modded-r32s/
Share on other sites

RB20's have no torque (compared with a RB25). I went with a R32 because it looks better.

Generally speaking Skylines are very robust performance cars, I guess the thing to look out for it the condition of the car (seats, carpet, steering wheel, how the gearbox feels, how dirty the motor is, how it sounds, window and door seals etc...)

yeah,i know an importer that would sell an r32 gtst w pod,hks ssqv,coilovers,r33 gtR buckets,75000ks...the one with the sunroof,also got a veilside front bar, new midnight blue paintjob and r32 gtr rims for 13,you know,for that price,youd save alot off the r33s price already,spend the difference,unless alot of bodywork done,r33s jus commodore anyway

everyone knows an importer or a friend of a friend who sells R32 for that price, but the reality is that there are costs involved in getting a car complied and on the road...

For a decent R32, you are looking at spending at least 15k.

nemz: don't mean to offend - this may be a bargain R32, but I have just seen so many similar posts - but have never seen a decent R32 for under 15.

Things to look out for: check windows, check wheel arches for rust, service history, interior condition, rubber in wheel arches (burnouts)...

Have a full mechanical insspection done including compression test!

they are 89 models though,the only problem i had was stock bov leaking boost back through plumbback,got a new one and its running fine,i really diddnt know i could get such a good example for 11,3,gave me a kakimoto exhaust 3" all the way,even had coloured drink holders lol

When i first got my R32 i did some basic mods(ehxaust, intercooler, boost and tune) which it made 190 rwkw, and ran 12.9 @117 mph on street 17" tyres. The mods didnt cost much at all ( around $1500) and left me with a close to stock 12 sec street car.

well either way dude,im not here to criticise you,nor you me,its beside the point,im sure there are alot of rip offs out there,maby the clock was wound back,but its still got original timing belt,the water pump dosent need changing,lets say it did ....whats an average for aussie conditions...18oooks a year x 15 years,thats 220,000 ks or so,what turbo engine would be running perfect after that? and if it has done over 150ooo ks im happy its running the way it is,for 11000 youd expect things to stuff up,ive had it for a year now and the only problem was that bov.

i've been looking around and its true that r32's in decent nick are really hard to find for under 15g, i've been looking at both the r32 and 33 and the r33 only seems to be a few more grand, not that much difference

on another note, about the km's issue, if its got an aftermarket speedo with the 180km plus speedo, this wouldnt be the correct km's reading right? it would be the reading from when the new speedo was put it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...