Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dunno about dyno graph as power figure wasn't really important to me.

Nor me. I was actually interested in seeing what improvements/compromises Matt made vis-a-vis the original setup by comparing a before and after run. Outright figures are pretty useless except as a rough guide (IMHO).

LW.

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah, when I go and do it I might plug the kakimoto back in for a run on low boost and then compare it to the PFC run on low boost. only as i don't really want to run the kaki on high boost without knowing what the ign map looks like. would be more beneficial to compare to a stock ecu, but I don't have one.

Anyone here used RIC SHAW performance at five dock (cnr parra road/lavender). He knows his power fc's since he's been using them for ages in his mazda's. I've spoken to him afew times and he knows his nissans too (i think he owns a skyline too).

I'm considering using him cause he's faily local for me and has always had goood results with friends cars.

Has anyone had any experiences with his work shop???

Cheers

haha jeez moaner, that narrows it down!! haha.

but anyway, yes Ric Shaw does have a number of fast drag cars from his workshop, but I think he is mainly into circuit.

:D nah.. i'm just refering to a guy that approached myself and wylie, at the shell just near that workshop... he proceeded to brag on about his car a little too much in a very condescending manner..... he said he worked at that workshop.. but not sure if its the same one!
Yeah, I've never used HITMAN myself, but a number of people I know have and all were happy with his service. Don't worry about waiting for the dyno mate, there is nothing wrong with a good road tune. Ask yourself: "where do I mostly drive?" on the road or on a dyno?

i have an r32 gts-4 i currently have a stoc computor but am getting a pfc soon.. do u know what hitman could do for me?

i have an r32 gts-4 i currently have a stoc computor but am getting a pfc soon.. do u know what hitman could do for me?

he could tune your PFC. I was happy with the guy.

Plenty of good tuners in sydney though, just read through this thread for peoples recomendations.

  • 2 months later...

I had mine done yesterday at croydon.

Cost was $650 and he also tuned my boost controller.

A nice conservative tune with GREAT A/F ratios. I'm very happy.

Its only now I understand how imperative it is to spend a bit more on stuff like tuning. If its not done right, its going to cost big, in terms of rebuild costs. Im happier spending that 1-2 hundred more (which is really nothing in the big picture) and being content knowing that my car wont blow

ok, going to see matt (hitman) later today for tune FMIC 3in turboback..

thinkin to tune it for 11psi..

will let u guys know how it goes wen i come back tonite..

finger crossed

good stuff. enjoy :rofl:

ok, going to see matt (hitman) later today for tune FMIC 3in turboback..

thinkin to tune it for 11psi..

will let u guys know how it goes wen i come back tonite..

finger crossed

ok lads,

just got back from a tuning session from Matt (hitman) top bloke..

went through a few things with me changed my plugs and stopped the misfiring i was getting.. fixed up a faulty wire on my boost controller,

and tuned for 13psi wich drops to about 10psi as the revs get up..

the computer used was Power FC of cause.. was tuned on a dyno...

and got 202.8rwKw and 192 on low boost from 9 psi drops to about 7.5 to 8 psi..

happy with the result, dn think was able to push over the 200mark but matt stated it was safe and nothing was maxing out..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...