L24et

[Ghostrider]

If I was to take a stock L24E engine with 8.5:1 compression and transfer all my L20ET turbo bits onto it including ECU, what sort of power gains are there likely to be over the stock L24E's rated 93.4Kw.

Also, am I likely to gain anything by putting on a larger T03, such as replacing the L20ET T03 which has a rear housing of .46 or there abouts, with an FJ20 turbo unit with a rear housing of .87 and using the L24E ECU with a Microtech piggy back unit for the turbo?

[discopotato03]

I'd say proportional to the airflow increase . As you would know there is a lot of interchangeability with L Series sixes . All the blocks are the same height and all the heads physically interchange . The larger capacity versions are cheap and available and externally the same size . There are a multitude of different EFI inlet manifold / throttle bodys for the L six . I would not limit myself to the L24 unless it was cost (ie you may have one) or class capacity for racing . I'm sure you could rat up an L28 and provided the L20A Turbo's exhaust manifold is free flowing enough could work OK .

Now to that T3 , the larger exhaust housing from the earlier non intercooled FJ20ET is .63AR . I personally would use the Garrett 5 bolt T3 housing and waste gate flap plate as it was designed around the larger of the two OD sizes for T3 turbines . Anyhow either type should work and give something like std RB30ET performance but without the smooth manners and fuel consumption that more modern engines and management gives .

Whats happening with the RB 25/30 you built ??????????

[rsx84]

dennis, i still have the l20et ecu sitting here if you want that?

with this upgrade i was first told that just bolting the turbo gear to the l24e, nothing else, you can run 6-7psi only without any concerns!

[drunkenmaster]

If your modifylng an L series car, I would always head straight to a P90head/F54block L28 regardless of whether you run it with EFI, EFI turbo or triple webbers.

[Ghostrider]

I'd say proportional to the airflow increase . As you would know there is a lot of interchangeability with L Series sixes . All the blocks are the same height and all the heads physically interchange . The larger capacity versions are cheap and available and externally the same size . There are a multitude of different EFI inlet manifold / throttle bodys for the L six . I would not limit myself to the L24 unless it was cost (ie you may have one) or class capacity for racing . I'm sure you could rat up an L28 and provided the L20A Turbo's exhaust manifold is free flowing enough could work OK .  

Now to that T3 , the larger exhaust housing from the earlier non intercooled FJ20ET is .63AR . I personally would use the Garrett 5 bolt T3 housing and waste gate flap plate as it was designed around the larger of the two OD sizes for T3 turbines . Anyhow either type should work and give something like std RB30ET performance but without the smooth manners and fuel consumption that more modern engines and management gives .  

Whats happening with the RB 25/30 you built  ??????????

I still have the RB25/30 and it's going into the PNV.

As for the L28 etc, I have an F54 block set up for R30 installation, P90 heads are easy to find, but if going that way, I would go with the LD28 crank and 3.1L as I suggested once before, but for now I'm holding all that for when I'm old and want to build a C210 or similar as a Targa car.

Re the L24E,

As Matt knows, my original project car was an Aussie delivered MR30 Ti hatch. It was purchased sight unseen, as I was only looking for a good body, but when it was delivered, to my surprise there was an engineers report for a/mkt turbo in the glove compartment written by Graham Senior in NSW.

With this information, I was going to build it as such, but as you all know, I now own the PNV and the Ti is going to be sold off.

To comply with the existing engineers report, the fitted L24E motor has to stay, hence my question.

All the L20ET inlet & exhaust + plumbing is going to be swapped onto the MR30 L24E, without intercooling. As you advise, the T03 I bought from Option 1 Garages is as you say, .63 AR rear housing, still somewhat larger than the original fitted to the L20ET. The thumbnail shows a red knob, I have been told it's some kind of boost control in the original L20ET manifolding.

So! I ask, which one do I use? The original or the FJ20 and what sort of gain over stock should I expect, and if using the FJ turbo, what benefit over the smaller is to be had? Will it just spool up faster or will it provide more boost etc, etc.

It has been suggested that it should give performance similar to a stock rex, but this I am not expecting, maybe in a straight line, as the 2.4 should have more torque at the same boost.

With a BOV after rego, I should be able to find someone that would pay me reasonable dollars for it. It would be a fairly cheap sort of reasonable performance car, despite it's age.

What suggestions do you have?

[Ghostrider]

dennis, i still have the l20et ecu sitting here if you want that?

with this upgrade i was first told that just bolting the turbo gear to the l24e, nothing else, you can run 6-7psi only without any concerns!

Couple of PM's waiting for you.

[blind_elk]

I was warned against this. I was advised that the engine would ping its brains out, because the L24E was never designed to operate under boost conditions.

[discopotato03]

Blind-Elk , logic suggests that if the AFR's / timing and boost levels are sane it could be made to work fine . The greatest challenge would be engine management if the factory L20a injectors / vane type AFM / and ECU are used .

I looked into the specs of the L20a (78 x 69.7) vs L24 (83 x 73.7) and the cylinder volumes of 333 vs 399cc's . The L20a's were unique in bore and stroke where the L24 is basically a six cylinder L16 . I have never seen the turbo off a L20a but I'm sure it was aimed at pulling the bottom end and mid range out of six very small cylinders . Upping the capacity 20% with dinosaur vintage turbos should be a snap . My first try would be the later .48AR housing type T3 found on the intercooled FJ's , these engines come on boost at 2200rpm and pull real well up to about 6800 with 498cc cylinders . I would be trying to get good low boost performance without overtaxing the flow capacity of the AFM . Actually if you could get the system off the turbo L28 it should work real well .

Getting back to the L24 , the L26 uses the same bore (83) but the stroke of the L28 so with std Nissan bits gets you 2565cc or 2690cc with 85mm pistons in the L24 block . Another thing to note is the early (1982) heads are much better than the later L24E items with the cast in afterburners . The early chambers are more like the heart shaped L16SSS heads and offer much better squish to fend off detonation plus 35mm exhaust valves .

This is probably getting a bit long winded and your budget will dictate how far you go . If you take the modest option the above mentioned turbo should work OK . I feel the larger exhaust housing type will cost bottom end while the std AFM will cost top end .

Have fun A .

[blind_elk]

I was looking at running a Wolf 3D on it. The warning I received, in light of running the Wolf, was that the combustion chambers were totally inappropriate to running with a turbocharger.

I have an L20ET sitting in the garage, but I can't get rid of it. Without the turbo and inlet manifolds, I would have even less chance of disposing of it (except on the end of a long piece of rope, the other end of which was attached to Skandia, or Nicorette). A L24E is worth basically nothing, so I am prepared to donate it to Skandia. I will be fitting the complete L20ET into the R30 hatch, and hooking up the Wolf.

[discopotato03]

Blind-elk the important think to realise is that combustion chamber shape is critical in the war against detonation . Often what works for high compression NA motors works with forced induction as long as the CR is appropriate . This is why a lot of effort goes into shapes that offer lower detonation threshold but I dont know of any turbo specific ones . With some of the L series 4's the chambers had very little or no quench zones in an effort to lower NoX emmisions with carburettors/leaded fuel, and the CR was quite low (Ser 1 Bluebird 8.4 CR) . You may need to read some books on the L series in competition , one I have is called How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine (HPBooks No 537) . While this was first published in 1986 it has stacks of useful data and an insight into the L6 engines turbocharged for various classes of tarmac racing in the US .

As far as your L20a goes , its only useful to someone who want's to keep an original car standard . Unfortunatly its the rarest and smallest of the L6's so not highly desirable , pistons and rings would be very hard to source so most would go to a common and cheap L24/26/28 . If they were going to use alternate engine management the only useful part on the L20ET would be the exhaust manifold - maybe . Every item in that engine can be improved upon with other standard L6 bits .

Sorry if this is not the answer your looking for but throwing money and time at it may not pay off .