Jump to content
SAU Community

short shifters? yes or no?

performance-wise

By performance-wise,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

Personally I think they are a waste, as I seem to make up time on gearchanges compaired to others with short shifters... (I dont have one). Sure they are nice and all, but I just think the money is better spent elsewhere (going in to a new gearbox maybe :rofl:)

Nameless EJ6 Collaborator

Nameless EJ6

Posted
Posted

Short shifters are a great concept., however, I do not trust the coordination of my clutch and shift work enough to justify one. I've seen many people **** their syncro's with them. Like sydneykid said, it is driver error.. but the longer pivot only contributes to driver error.

They will mess things up sooner or later - no one can shift perfectly, nor have perfect clutch timing.

Alot of Honda guys have notchy transmissions caused by short shifters. Most often it's the ITR's with their stock short throws. At first, the short shifter seems amazing, and over time the transmission becomes alot more edgy and temperamental. I've expirimented and formed my own opinions on them with my experiences using them in my own cars and friends cars - the outcome is always the same.

Me = against short shifters.

shonen Grand Master

shonen

Posted
Posted
I just change my shifter to C's original short shifter, it's smoother than original shifter and it's much shorther.

 

I did everything by myself , there is no dramas at all, instruction says everything clearly.

It took me 40 minutes to install (I'm a noob :rofl: )

 

Erik

dude are you the guy who bought frankys car ???

Also can you PM details on where you got your original Cs shifter for your car..

been looking for one for awhile and people say that the Cs factory went bankrupt and you cant get them anymore...and I dont wanna get a copy.

2Fast 2Furious Rookie

2Fast 2Furious

Posted
Posted
A little OT but I have installed a short shift (copy of C's or some home brand type) - it's a solid brass one and I don't see it snapping or anything and it really does make the box feel a LOT nicer. Unfortunately sometimes the stick itself gets too hot to touch (which makes quick gear changes a must and stops you from resting your hand on the shifter heh heh)

Just one question - how do you tell if you're going too fast for the syncro?

you'll be able to tell if your shifting to fast for the syncro's by ear and by feel. More so with the short shifter, as you'll have more feel. Basicaly if you have to force it your going to fast. you can still change gears fast and be gental at the same time.

It may take a bit of time to get used to the feel, but you'll know when you do get the change right.

I'm a bit worried about the heat getting through the shifter though. the only time 've ever seen a hot gear stick is when its got a metal knob and its out in the sun. It surtainly shouldnt get to hot to touch just from driving.

performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i was going to cut my shifter down 2 inches and then get a mate who is a machinist to re-thread the end of it to put gear knob back on.

will this be any different than buying a short shift kit?

carro

Cutting your shifter will only make the lever shorter not your shift. Thats why they are called short shifter and not mini gear stick. :D

Read what sydneykid wrote a few posts back and it will help answer your question.

R31 POWER Mentor

R31 POWER

Posted
Posted
Does anyone know the difference between a shifter for RB25 and RB20?

Can you fit a RB20 short shifter in a RB25 box?

The fool who sold me the crappy shifter is trying to tell me that there is no difference and only the bolt lengths are different?

I have a RB25det box and RB20det box side by side with shifters.The RB20 one fits the RB25 one fine except that little nylon bush at the end is way to small (read like half the size!) and is very sloppy.

performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh they fit but they dont work properly and they make a shitload of noise

Occassionaly it would pop out of the selector in the box and over time it would probably stuff up. No good if you want reliability and safety or control.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

A picture showing the comparison between the no name short shifter and the standard shifter;

1903Shifter_Comparison_Small-med.jpg

I can confirm that the no name shifter is 16mm longer from the pivot point to the point of engagement with the linkage than the standard shifter. It is 58 mm and the standard shifter is 42mm. The gearlevers are the same length from the pivot point to the knob, being 210 mm. So this means a 20% reduction in gearknob movement for the same amount of shift linkage movement. That was what was advertised and it does in fact achieve a 20% reduction in shift movement.

There is another benefit I overlooked previously. The 16mm spacer under the pivot point moves the shift up wards, and since it si the same length above the pivot, thsi means the gear knob is 16 higher in the car. Hence 16mm closer to the steering wheel, which means less time spent moving the hand from the wheel to the knob when changing gear.

This is of course exactly the opposite to what would occure if you simply cut the shifter and moved the gear knob lower down on the shaft.

Dissadvantages/advantages that I can see when comparing the standard to short shifter;

1. There is no rubber isolation of the top half of the shifter from the bottom half (that's what the bulb is half way up to the knob). This means there will be more vibration passed to the gear knob. On the other hand it means better feel as there is no rubber dampening between the gearbox and your hand.

2. The lack of rubber insolation measn that the heat from the gearbox will pass up the metal lever all the way to the knob. This no name shifter came with a chrome plated gear knob, which will get hotter than the standard gear knob. If this becomes an issue I may try a plastic washer and some teflon tap on the thread to isolate the gear knob from the shift. That may stop some of the heat transfer.

Hope that was of some use.:cheers:

PS; thanks to gR33ddy for supplying the standard shifter used in this comparison.

2Fast 2Furious Rookie

2Fast 2Furious

Posted
Posted
i was going to cut my shifter down 2 inches and then get a mate who is a machinist to re-thread the end of it to put gear knob back on.

will this be any different than buying a short shift kit?

carro

Yeah. it will be different. a short shifter kit works by shifting the pivot point higher on the stick, making the length below the pivot ball longer. ther installed length of the shifter is not nessasarily any different. It's the actual ratio of the gear stick throw that is diferent. as an example mine is 12mm longer bellow the pivot point than the standard stick. So for a given movement of the gear lever the lower end of the gear stick moves further than when it was standard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • Bennym35
      New guy

      By Bennym35 · Posted

      The roof is wrapped
    • Duncan
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Duncan · Posted

      This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...