Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock GTR 33 feels slow. What to do ?

Tommyk

By Tommyk,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tommyk Veteran

Tommyk

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

Last week I picked up my '95 GTR Vspec.

I'm damn happy with its performance, but I would really like some more bottom end. The car is completely stock. It even has the factory boost restrictor in place.

What can I do to get more bottom end. The car feels like it has no power whatsoever below 3 grand. Now im not too keen on doing too many mods because I am broke. I also dont need any more attention that im getting from cops and the like. So i'd like to keep it as stock as possible (incl stock exhaust).

Opinions and advice please

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59839-stock-gtr-33-feels-slow-what-to-do/
Share on other sites
RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

Make sure the timing is correct.

Change any fuel filters that are old.

Check the plugs and the gaps are correct as well.

Get a compression test done by a mechanic and a dyno.

Just to check where things are at.

If its as bad as you say there may be an underlying fault somewhere.

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

Plus make sure the factory cat convertor isn't blocked which can cause excess back pressure and loss of torque.

An exhaust will also help bring boost on sooner which will make the bottom end more responsive. (If you have a crappy press bent factory one)

Tommyk Veteran

Tommyk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Its just undergone compliance, so all fluids have already been changed, etc etc.

It really isnt that slow, but the take off compared to other gtr's is much slower. Driving around the city at about 2000 revs isnt that much fun. Perhaps I'm being a bit pedantic.

But honestly, there is no pickup from the turbos until about 3-3500 revs. And compared to my old stock gts-t, it's much slower under 4 grand

4 grand up its a monster :P

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted
Would a boost controller help boost pick up any quicker ?

I have one still handy

hi, with a boost controller you will be able to bring the boost on earlier, although not by a large amount.

generally speaking, there is nothing you can do if you are used to the gtst

i have had two gtsts, and am often in a stockish gtr, and i know exactly what you mean about the slowness..

by the time my gtst reaches 4 grand you are accellerating pretty quickly and about to break traction, whereas you really need to keep the revs above 4 grand in the gtr to get a similar response. its normal, just fit the electronic boost controller and get used to it :P

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

Full exaust/front pipes/hi flow cat first..

then Adjustable Cam gears will help bring boost on alot earlier.

and take out the boost restricter, (won't really help low rpm tho, where the exaust/cam gears will)

Tommyk Veteran

Tommyk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

very true

well ive been driving it a fair bit for the last week or so.

I'm also slowly getting used to driving it, and becoming more accustomed to its driving style

Revving it out when I need more power, and around the streets up to 3k rpm is sufficient

blur Proficient

blur

Posted
Posted

yeah dont drive it like a wuss!! my last gtr and my current one (both 32s ) seemed a little sluggish below 3500rpm but remember they do rev to 8k! definatly do an exhaust first, 3 inch at least and tuned lengh front pipes with high flow cat, will make more power and more rb26 noise!

marchGTR Collaborator

marchGTR

Posted
Posted

have you dropped it from 7k yet??? damn it feels fast when you do that!!

my gtr is stock and I removed the boost restrictor and boost went up from 12psi to 14psi and gave me an extra 22awkw (with standard exhaust) and on the road it blows away a lot of more powerful cars

Tommyk Veteran

Tommyk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
have you dropped it from 7k yet??? damn it feels fast when you do that!!

my gtr is stock and I removed the boost restrictor and boost went up from 12psi to 14psi and gave me an extra 22awkw (with standard exhaust) and on the road it blows away a lot of more powerful cars

Did removing the boost restrictor give you much better response down low ?

I'm having a fair bit of trouble removing this restrictor. Need to get the right set of pliers :)

Damn, the fuel economy on this thing aint too bad either. Averaging between 11-13 litres/100. Highway/city driving :D

marchGTR Collaborator

marchGTR

Posted
Posted
Did removing the boost restrictor give you much better response down low ?

I'm having a fair bit of trouble removing this restrictor. Need to get the right set of pliers :)

 

Damn, the fuel economy on this thing aint too bad either. Averaging between 11-13 litres/100. Highway/city driving :)

Squeeze the restrictor out from the outside, use any sort of pliers and pop it out like a cork, should take you a couple of minutes. probably didnt help much below 3G although definately hit boost harder and pulled better through to redline.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...