Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

well overheat or heating issue shouln't have happen but last night my GTR heat up a bit, spit coolant out....

Took a look this morning and found that my coolant is so dirty, i will give it a FLUSH but i've notice that the Aircon fan MEANT to WORK as a secondary/back up fan when things heat up ( Well that what i've found on my old 33 ) but my didn't kick in last night .

So, i'll get Nissan dealer ( Ferntry Gully one ) to have a look but i would like to find out anyone here runs THERMAL FAN on their GTRs? If you do, how did it go? What sensor do you use....ect..? :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/
Share on other sites

oh by the way....i have a set of fans from a EL falcon fitted.....i wired them up through a VDO sensor that is adjustable and it piggy backs on the sender so no extra probes need to be fitted....however the fan is on for the first minute or so when the vehicle is stone cold...this is because the sender is out of the range that the sensor can see....but after a minute it comes online....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142143
Share on other sites

the fan is supposed to work when you got the aircon on only......make sure your clutch fan is working correctly and the coolant system has been bled correctly

Bled properly!! How and what need to be done? Do i need to give it to a radiator place to get this pressurise whatever they reckon that will flush everything out ? Clutch fan seem to be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142144
Share on other sites

oh by the way....i have a set of fans from a EL falcon fitted.....i wired them up through a VDO sensor that is adjustable and it piggy backs on the sender so no extra probes need to be fitted....however the fan is on for the first minute or so when the vehicle is stone cold...this is because the sender is out of the range that the sensor can see....but after a minute it comes online....

So the fan dont' kick in until a minute after you start the car? That should be fine anyway shouln't it? I don't really want to get rid of the clutch fan until i have no other option.

Does your thermal fan draw alot of power when they kick in?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142149
Share on other sites

Actually the fan is switched on by a coolant temp sensor in the bottom tank of the radiator on R32 GTR's - mine has it.

So when you switch the A/C on does it fire up?

west------>however the fan is on for the first minute or so when the vehicle is stone cold...this is because the sender is out of the range that the sensor can see....but after a minute it comes online....and the fan switchs off

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142171
Share on other sites

Ok did a little test today....bypass this plug by puting a current through the FAN came on..

So the fan came on with the two terminals shorted (joined) in the green connector shown in that photo ?? If so, then problem is with the thermoswitch in the bottom of the radiator.

But I'd recommend get your entire cooling system checked out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142427
Share on other sites

...so i assume that this plug here, which plug into the radiator stuff itself up therefor there were no signal/current sends to the condensor fan .....

What you guys think? I'll order a new one from Nissan?

Before you order a new one you can check out the old one if you have access to an ohm meter. With it out of the car as shown, the resistance across its terminals should be infinate at anything less than about 90C. Next thing to do is to chuck it in some boiling water (eg pan on a stove), let it sit for a minute to reach temp and then quickly take it out and measure the resistance of the terminals before the temp drops. Resistance should be zero or nearly so. If not, it's stuffed. If it checks out OK with this test, it's time to look at the wiring (corrosion, etc).

Of course don't burn yourself in the process :cheers:

Oh and if you don't have an ohm/volt meter I'd recommend getting one as they are'nt expensive and are a very useful tool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142434
Share on other sites

Before you order a new one you can check out the old one if you have access to an ohm meter.   With it out of the car as shown, the resistance across its terminals should be infinate at anything less than about 90C.   Next thing to do is to chuck it in some boiling water (eg pan on a stove), let it sit for a minute to reach temp and then quickly take it out and measure the resistance of the terminals before the temp drops.  Resistance should be zero or nearly so.   If not, it's stuffed.  If it checks out OK with this test, it's time to look at the wiring (corrosion, etc).

Of course don't burn yourself in the process :)

Oh and if you don't have an ohm/volt meter I'd recommend getting one as they are'nt expensive and are a very useful tool.

Ok thank heaps Steve, sound a bit technical as i don't have a ohm meter so i might get an electrical cleaner spray to clean out all the corrosion tomorrow .

If it still doesn't work by then i'll book it in for a radiator flush also order a new thermal switch or just give it to Nissan get the whole thing check out. :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142441
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG is has not responded to my emails so far after purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
×
×
  • Create New...