Jump to content
SAU Community

Can FMIC cause overheating?

B0oStEr

By B0oStEr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
Posted

I've just bought a Hybrid style 600x300x76mm bar and plate intercooler for my R32 GTSt.

I've been told that bar and plate I/Cs have denser fins than the tube and fin type and that this makes it harder for air to pass through the cooler to the radiator behind.

Reduced airflow as well as the extra heat from the I/C.

How much of an issue is this likely to be regarding overheating?

What measures have people used to minimise the likelihood of overheating?

Eg, positioning, additional ducting, sealing, vents etc.

BTW How much am I going to have to chop up my stock sedan front bar to fit the cooler and piping?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60035-can-fmic-cause-overheating/
Share on other sites
cameron Mentor

cameron

Posted
Posted

Doesn't make a difference really air is lazy and will go around anything, Their's other object is the road after the intercooler eg: the cooling system for the airconditioner were the thermo fan bolts onto.

I've seen + 1 - 2ºc max on a skyline were the airconditioning system has been removed and this car is fitted with a bar and plate cooler (79ºc operating temp) as were the other skyline with tube & fin cooler and airconditioning system in place it sits on (81ºc operating temp) - other factor's that can make a difference is that this car has a alliminium raditator so it could just be the raditator it self keeping the heat in.

Inless you'r water temp temps start going up past 85+ then don't worrie too much.

As for front bar you'll have to figure that out for you'r self, but usally a fair bit with that size cooler.

:cheers:

Jun

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

Depends on the intercooler setup.

The intercooler should not cover the whole radiator + if you are still running the standard engine fan and shroud it should still run fine. On super hot days mine does not go over 90.

Get a water sprayer setup from MRT in sydney - I run a custom setup which its just for piece of mind more then anything.

Good luck

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

Cameron: my 90 reading was sitting out the front waiting for the girls to get there ass into gear and get into the car (with air con running on a 40 deg day)

Was just idleing itself getting hotter and hotter and hotter....

Mine can sit on 86 after a few good boosts on a hot day - i am running a AVO Stage 2 intercooler with 3" staino piping - there is still room for the radiator to get direct air (through the grill for starters)

My cooler is a Bar N Plate setup - Tube and fin is better for street applications. Are they more expensive ?

Muz Experienced

Muz

Posted
Posted

Also You might like to try an oil cooler (if you don't already have one) as the oil that circulates thru the engine can also add to a latent heat build up in your engine block. The water then has to try and cool that as well. In JGTC now they are using angled radiator and intercooler to allow for more direct cooling of each surface. If you do get an oil cooler, do not mount it in front of the intercooler/ac condensor/radiator setup as you are just compounding the problem of the radiator (being last in line) having a much higher set of temps to cool.

Cheers

Nexus9 Grand Master

Nexus9

Posted
Posted

or you could get a larger radiator cooling fan.

on my old S13 the FMIC completely obstructed the radiator, we used replaced the stock fan with a couple of Zirgen pusher fans, over heating problem disappeared, from memory I think it ended up costing about $300.00 or so.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Cameron: my 90 reading was sitting out the front waiting for the girls to get there ass into gear and get into the car (with air con running on a 40 deg day)

Was just idleing itself getting hotter and hotter and hotter....

It won't make a difference as when idling in peak hour traffic there is no air passing through the radiator/fmic anyway. It has to be sucked.

I used to have the temp slowly creep up with a dodgy clutch fan.

I had it removed and 2 x 12" davis thermo's fitted, it helped but still the temp would creep up with the a/c on in peak hour traffic where the AMB button on the temp sensor would read a whopping 59degree's!!

The problem was I didn't have them mounted on a shroud but directly to the radiator. The surface area was not enough.

Removed the fans and replaced it with a stock shroud & new clutch fan and overheating issues dissapeared no matter how hot and how long I sit stationary.

Now when I first start the car in the morning I can hear the fan whooshing rather loud for the first 10secs then it stops.

On hot days in peak hour traffic I can most definately hear the fan roaring away if I raise the rev's slightly over 1000rpm.

But saying that my bar and plate FMIC sits roughly 20-30cm's away from the radiator so its not directly in front restricting air flow.

The fan can then suck air from all the little spots around the fmic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...