Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a few bits and pieces available after my conversion.

RB20 CAS x 2 $75 ea

RB20 Crossover pipe inc BOV $40

RB25 Crossover pipe inc BOV $40 SOLD

RB25 Power steering pump, pulley slightly bent $20

RB25 AC compressor $75

RB20 Water pump, approx 20k old $80

RB25 Turbo, very good condition $400 SOLD

RB20/25 Oil lines $10 each

RB20 Stock Dump and front pipe $30

RB25 Stock Dump pipe $15

RB20 Stock clutch and flywheel $100

RB20 stock injectors $10 ea

RB20 ecu only $80

RB20 afm $80 including plug if needed SOLD

RB20 Short motor, suit rebuild or will strip for parts. No turbo, lines, anciliaries, injectors etc $150. I've pulled the head off the engine now, it is in excellent condition, bores are perfect, head and valves are perfect, piston tops look good. She definately needs new rings considering the compression when i pulled it out

I might have a few more bits and pieces lying around for the RB20, just ask if it's not listed

Cheers,

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60447-assorted-rb2025-engine-parts/
Share on other sites

I've got a few bits and pieces available after my conversion.

RB20 CAS x 2 $75 ea

RB20 Crossover pipe inc BOV $40

RB25 Crossover pipe inc BOV $40 SOLD  

RB25 Power steering pump, pulley slightly bent $20

RB25 AC compressor $75

RB20 Water pump, approx 20k old $80  

RB25 Turbo, very good condition $400

RB20/25 Oil and water lines $10 each

RB20 Stock Dump and front pipe $30

RB25 Stock Dump pipe $15

RB20 Stock clutch and flywheel $100

RB20 stock injectors $10 ea

RB20 ecu only $80

RB20 afm $80 including plug if needed SOLD  

RB20 Short motor, suit rebuild or will strip for parts. No turbo, lines, anciliaries, injectors etc $150

I might have a few more bits and pieces lying around for the RB20, just ask if it's not listed

Cheers,

Dave

hey man,

Will the turbo bolt straight onto an rb20? If so and is in good nic, very interested. Sorry dot know how to PM anyone nymore. Cant find the option for it

Gordon.

Adelaide.

Gordon,

My understanding is it will bolt straight onto an RB20.

You just have to rotate the hosuing a little. (Undo a few bolts)

The turbo will give more midrange punch and make the motor pull all the way to its redline, rather than dwindling away like the stock RB20 turbo.

Best of all if you only run moderate boost pressures your factory ecu will cope fine, but more punch from the larger turbo obviously.

The only thing you should double check is that the snout on the compressor outlet has the same bolt spacing/pattern as the rb20, because i can't see a snout included in the pics included.

$400 is a great price too.

If you run a search you will find plenty of info, confirming preety much of what i have said.

If you want to PM just click the username on the left handside and the little java box will pop down for the options :thumbsup:

It will bolt straight up if you have one of the later model rb20 engines. The earlier engines have different size banjos on the water lines i think. The compressor outlet is different but i will supply the rb25 one cos i'm such a nice guy.

Postage to adelaide is about 25 bucks but i'll have to confirm with Aus Post.

Cheers

Dave

Hey Dave, If the turbo is in the condition you say its in, consider it sold if its still available, send me a PM with ya email so we can organise this, also let me know if there is any shaft play in it and how much play if any

Hey man

Can you take apicture of the inside of the ecu so i can make sure its the same as mine (there are 2 different circuit layouts in r32gtsts)

the other thing is - is it a rb20det ecu from an r32?

if it is what i want - i'll buy it

Do you have closer pics of the RB20 CAS?

Especially the inside of the driving shaft and the CAS plug

Here you go.

Let me know if want any more pics. I also have another one thats on the engine atm.

Cheers

Dave

Hey man

 

Can you take apicture of the inside of the ecu so i can make sure its the same as mine (there are 2 different circuit layouts in r32gtsts)

the other thing is - is it a rb20det ecu from an r32?

 

if it is what i want - i'll buy it

Heres some pics for you. Its from an R32 GTSt late model

Let me know if you want any more

Cheers

Dave

Dave,

sorry to be a pain but i can't make out what i need to - referring to the second picture...

in the upper left corner, mine has a row full of resistors, whereas the other model doesn't - this poses a problem, as my motor came with an ecu that had the resistors - and when it failed we put the other type in, and due to the lack of resistors - it got fried.

when i unpack this weekend and find my ecu's (i have 3 blown up ones - long story), i'll give you the model number of the type i need, i juist remembered that the first half of the number is different between the two.

sorry to be such a hassle

Charles

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...