Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was curious to see if anyone has subaru injectors on their RB26, RB20, or RB25 (converted to top feed injectors)?

My friend has them on his civic and work great. If you clip the tip off the injector they are 740cc injectors and you can pick them up for around $70-90 for a set (4 injectors).

I have an RB25DET, but will be buying a RB26 fuel rail to make it top feed. Then will be getting the subaru injectors. Just curious if anyone has done this before....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60616-anyone-use-subaru-injectors/
Share on other sites

I'll be interested to read more on this. Good luck and keep us posted. I'm about to fit up some toyota 440cc injectors in the Rb25. High impedence so no need to use a resistor pack.

Soo what are the dimensions of the Scooby ones? What impedence? Are any other mods required to the system to accomodate them?

They are a high impedence top feed injector. I have two friends that have done this so far on their Hondas and are having great results. The easiest way of cutting the tip off of them is to get dog nail clippers with the curved blade and apply a little pressure to them while turning it around the tip, which normally will cut them off in about 2-3 360 degree turns.

The flow rate on them are all within 1% of each other and have heard no one having problems with not having equal flow rates. Just to be safe, you can send them in and get them checked for the flow rate normally for $5 per injector.

The clips are the only issue right now, but is possible to use the subaru injector clips. You can get some .110 tab and seal them with silicone and will work perfectly fine.

I'll be interested to read more on this. Good luck and keep us posted. I'm about to fit up some toyota 440cc injectors in the Rb25. High impedence so no need to use a resistor pack.

 

Soo what are the dimensions of the Scooby ones? What impedence? Are any other mods required to the system to accomodate them?

Much easier to use S15 SR20det injectors for Rb25det (not Neo)

They are 448cc some people say they are 480cc

at 448cc that is a 21% increase over standard 370cc

so they should be good for approx 270rwkw.

The sr20 and rb25 use the same injectors, so there is no need for any mod's

you Must get the Manual turbo injectors, as auto injectors are still only 370cc

Manual ones are red/orange colour part number 16600 91F00

370cc are purple colour which are also in S14

I had to buy 2 sets of 4 at $300 set

I will sell the spare 2 at $150 for 2

Then someone only needs to buy 1 more set at $300 or less

You end up with a much cheaper upgrade for about $450 set of 6

No need for resistor's or top mount fuel rails

There is a set of Subaru WRX injectors for sale on nissansilvia.com.com and the question has been asked do they fit Sr20

Answer quote "I do not think so"

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...topic=66615&hl=

Hope this helps

Cheers Darren, but with a GTR rail there is very little to be done to fit up top feed injectors.

I measured the impedence of the Toyo injectors at 3.1 ohms so they are low impedence....not what I was told. No biggie anyway. Little bit of simple wiring.

Whats the resistance of std Rb20/25 injectors, i cant remember what mine read, woudl i be right if i said somewhere around the 12ohms.

Which brings me to my next question, surely ECUs work within an impedence window, any idea what this may be. Say in the case of GTR ECU, perhaps handle impedences between 2.0-3.5ohm? RB20/25 ECU between 9.0-12.0ohm?!?!?!?!?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...