Jump to content
SAU Community

FLUTTER sound as BOV

ATTN

By ATTN,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ATTN Proficient

ATTN

Posted
Posted

how do i get the Flutter sound on my s2 gtst?

i was at a wrecker and this guy came down changing gears letting off this cool flutter sound into the atmosphere

i asked the guy how he did it but he did go into much detail i guess he want to keep it a secert

he briefly said that he blocked off the BOV and he asked if i had a aftermarket air filter, he said thats all i needed to get that sound

i really wanted the flutter sound because it sounded MAD

i want to know if anyone knew how to do this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60654-flutter-sound-as-bov/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

ScottKing GTS-4 Community Regular

ScottKing GTS-4

Posted
Posted

Remove the stock BOV - get an empty can of beer and cut a gasket out of the can the shape of the BOV, but DONT cut a whole in the gasket for the air to flow through and then mount the gasket back onto the BOV. You get no blow-by to the BOV so the "flutter" you hear is the waste-gate venting itself.

  • 3 weeks later...
geno8r Grand Master

geno8r

Posted
Posted
Shit i flutter ONLY when i run 17 pounds of boost and drive hard, on 10 pounds i couldnt make it flutter if i tried. This is without modifing the BOV as it is still stock.

Sh!t hmmmmmm ummmmm this might be because at 10 psi the stock BOV is big enough flow out that much air, but at 17 psi there is much more air and while the stock BOV is venting there is still excess air which goes back out through your compressor... My advice... get a high flowing BOV or two!!

geno8r Grand Master

geno8r

Posted
Posted
Wait i thought it was just a better type of BOV that produced this flutter sound, I was told that the BOV's that make this sound are alot better then the standard types, But is the only difference the sound it makes?

THE ACTUAL BOV DOESNT MAKE THAT FLUTTERING SOUND... gezzzzz dammit ppl..... That sound is when air returns back through your intercooler piping & back out through your turbo compressor. This flutter sound is the turbo 'chopping' up the air trying to push it through the piping but the air is returning so it chops up the air & creates that 'flutter' noise. This will occur when there is no BOV, or a too tight of a BOV & you slam the throttle shut after boosting. Oww & it’s not good for your turbo because it can slow your turbo down rapidly and create excess strain & wear, so don’t be trendwhores & forget the flutter.

JCMarshall_Law Proficient

JCMarshall_Law

Posted
Posted

I suggest those about to reply to this thread should read this first, it is exactly the same thread, but a lot more debate had gone on.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...+sound+as+a+BOV

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted
Sh!t hmmmmmm ummmmm this might be because at 10 psi the stock BOV is big enough flow out that much air, but at 17 psi there is much more air and while the stock BOV is venting there is still excess air which goes back out through your compressor... My advice... get a high flowing BOV or two!!

Yeah my next plan would be to fit twin gt-r bov's (stock ones, plumb back) USed to have a HKS SSQV, and ive whinged many times about the stalling, so got rid of it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • TheBushKangaroo
      Hello fellow enthusiasts

      By TheBushKangaroo · Posted

      Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • MBS206
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...