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By soviet_merlin · Posted
FWIW I had the one on my Stagea replaced some time ago. Didn't have any shuddering. Just lots of grease going everywhere. My mechanic was saying it is easier and cheaper to just get a new one and replace it. No reason to spend hours on the labour for them to dick around fixing the old one. We ended up getting a replacement from JustJap. Reasonably confident it would have been one of these: https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd It was $190 ordered through the mechanic. We only replaced the side that was torn and left the other alone. -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
Most likely it's tuning related. That plenum is fine, moving to a Plazmaman you won't notice much of a difference. If you want supreme low down, better off with the stock intake manifold & plenum OR the Rajab top half. A Precision or Turbosmart 6262 is too big for what you want, and big boost with Tomei Valve springs also a fail. You can make 373kW on a stock motor with just head studs, sensible timing in the mid range and it will last for your intended purposes (won't last on the track for too long). -
Stick the caliper in your vice with soft jaws, that way you can turn it upside down simply. I think the factory lines are 10x1mm but I'd just take the whole thing down to your local Pirtek/MSCN and get them to sort it out.
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Hi Andy and welcome! Got any pics of the customers cars you're talking about?
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Thanks for that Komdotkom Does anyone by chance know what the thread is on the end of the hard line of the GTST front brake system before it goes to the braided line - will need to get a fitting to put in there as you say. Could you do this with the caliper on the car? Just get the pistons all the way back with a spacer or even some clamps? Im running a 36mm disc and 18mm pads - the pistons are almost as far back as they can get but i think with some old pads and a wedge I can make sure. Just easier if the caliper is mounted to something.
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