Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could someone shed some light for me in regards to aftermarket engine management systems that use a MAP sensor Vs an Air Flow meter!?

Drivability for both?

What power are you limited to if running air flow meters?

Any other peculiarities or problems etc?

I was recently running a Microtech MTX-12 sequential direct fire and that used a MAP sensor.. despite having the car tuned twice by different garages of good repute the drivability in terms of starting the car and low idle were not that good – other than that it was fine and made good power. I was told that this was due to manifold vaccum pressures and the map sensor needing to get it's sh*t together on start up.. hence it would stall a lot and need multiple starts.

It's driving me up the wall.. if anyone could help, that would be mostly appreciated. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61104-map-sensor-vs-air-flow-meter/
Share on other sites

Could someone shed some light for me in regards to aftermarket engine management systems that use a MAP sensor Vs an Air Flow meter!?

Drivability for both?

What power are you limited to if running air flow meters?

Any other peculiarities or problems etc?

I was recently running a Microtech MTX-12 sequential direct fire and that used a MAP sensor.. despite having the car tuned twice by different garages of good repute the drivability in terms of starting the car and low idle were not that good – other than that it was fine and made good power. I was told that this was due to manifold vaccum pressures and the map sensor needing to get it's sh*t together on start up.. hence it would stall a lot and need multiple starts.

It's driving me up the wall.. if anyone could help, that would be mostly appreciated. Thanks

Hi Conrad, I have seen 1,100+ ps on a pair of Q45 AFM's (90 mm), I don't believe there is a power limit. You simply use bigger AFM's, I have seen 100+ mm AFM's, a pair of those would be good for 1400+ ps.

An AFM measures the airflow going into the engine. A MAP sensors measures pressure and the ECU works out the airlfow using throttle position and rpm. So a MAP sensor driven ECU can never be as accurate at finely measuring ariflow as an AFM driven ECU. This is most noticeable at low rpms, cold start, cold run, stop start, traffic, air con on, power steer, electrical load etc etc. A MAP sensor driven ECU can be tuned to give as much max power, but it is so much harder to get the car to run "nice". Sometimes it is simply not possible, this is most noticeable in GTR's as they have multiple throttle bodies. It is almost impossible to get a decent/accurate/consistent pressure signal to feed the MAP sensor.

My recommendation for all road/combo cars is the Power FC, GTR's make good power wit them and run as "nice" as with the standard ECU. The car that makes 1100 ps with the AFM's runs a Power FC (BTW, it does 8's at ~165 mph).

Hope that helps:cheers:

Cheers thank you for that, I hate that feeling of hearing a thousand different versions of a story by people less in the know.. ok that cements it for me. appreciated.

My microtech died so I'm going to have to purchase wiring loom, 2 airflow meters + plugs, then get it installed and tuned.

To keep cost down as this aint going to be cheap.. do I have to fork out $300 each for Z32 AFM's or can I use the RB20/RB25 AFM's? Are there any blatant advantages?

I have been running a R33 Wolf 3D plug and play for the last 6 months.

It uses an internal MAP sensor or can be configured for an air flow sensor.

I chose the MAP.

Developing power on the dyno was easy and is repeatable and reliable.

As the SK says the MAPs do not meter small levels of RPM as well as the air flow sensor.

In fact I have had a ball over the last 5 months setting the tuning as best as possible at idle and with engine load such as air conditioning and lights etc.

It is good now but not as good as factory ECU.

I have cold starts and warm ups as good as factory ECU, but has taken many hours.

Cheers

Rob

I'm using a Haltech E11 on my RB30DET. It can use an AFM or a MAP sensor, the latter can be calibrated to suit any brand through the software. I'm running with the MAP and cold starts, idle control, light loads are all excellent. Not a plug-in like the wolf though.

To keep cost down as this aint going to be cheap.. do I have to fork out $300 each for Z32 AFM's or can I use the RB20/RB25 AFM's? Are there any blatant advantages?

Well I have seen 400kw with RB26 AFM's.. we then upgraded to RB20/25 AFM's.

You can push the stock AFM's past what they are recommended to do.

CONRAD,

I notice you are in Adelaide?

Who's been doing the work on the car?

Have you had Tim Possingham (Previous RPM Owner & Microtech Buff) have a look at it?

Shaun @ Boostworx also has had good experience with the microtech.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...