Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by meggala

if you are going for a mga  big torbo and heaps of power yes other wise the stock one is good for 450 hp or so is that enough

meggala

later on down the track there's possibility for a larger turbo, but for now im deciding against because i do want to retain bottom end...so you believe the plenum wont make that much of a difference to response over the "full" piping and OEM plenum?

please elaborate!

what does a Greddy one do that a fabricated one can't do? i mean Greddy is essentially a fabricated item anyway?

i spoke to mark at hills motorsport about inlet plenums and wether or not each of the injectors will be fed the same amount of air (which i believe is the main issue?) and he's very confident he's looked at that and addressed it...?

Provided the custom one is constructed in a way that it is tapered down towards the back there is no problem with air distribution as the throttle body does not feed directly towards any runners giving them more air.

I did not notice any extra lag when i fitted my front mount with the long crossover pipe.

the main issues with the other custom pleniums is the cars idle very badly. there is no inlet for the breather pipes from the rockers ( which doesn't conform to the epa. and they are alot of money for little gain. most people I have heard who fitted a custom plenium have had to go to custom ecu which in it self is not always legal. I have seen plenty of skylines make 250+ rwkw with the stock plenium. so why change unless as I said you want an all out race car.

btw if you can show me skyline with a custom plenium running the stock ecu and running well with cold start etc. I would be interested.

btw mat lowth on these forums is making 270 rwkw + with the standard plenium and probably more .

you car is fairly new and must drive beautifuly why ruin that if the are no major gains to be had.

meggala

Originally posted by meggala

if you are going for a mga  big torbo and heaps of power yes other wise the stock one is good for 450 hp or so is that enough

meggala

Thats true, iv heard something in the vincinity of 500hp+ you would only see a difference with custom plenum.

Frank, iv actually thought of this b4 and went to investigate it further. I was in the same position as you, installing a new fmic and wanted to get custom plenum only coz it was so much neater.

There are only really gains to be had (maybe even none) by having this custom plenum.

Its just 2 expensive and won't justify the $=hp improvement.

If your fussed your beta off just getting the intercooler pipes HPC treated to repel heat of something.

conclusion

Don't waste money on custom plenum, not worth it.

actually, i can shed a bit of light on this thread, i've used both custom and modified stock plenum. the modified stocko is the better of the 2 , but it does requires lots of grinding work withing the plenum for correct air deflection vanes, where as the custom was an absolute heap of shit. but then the g reddy one looks the wrks tough, and as for response time, it beats the stock pipe over settup hands down and this is with a big fmic. i got pics if anyone wants to look just pm me.

Re: the idle - That's spot on - that's because they no longer use the idle control component... Cold start is no good either...

re: my car - as you said - it's made 316rwkw @ 14psi as of last week, and still running the crossover plenum - so there is definitely better mods to do before you consider the plenum.

matt

Originally posted by meggala

the main issues with the other custom pleniums is the cars idle very badly. there is no inlet for the breather pipes from the rockers ( which doesn't conform to the epa. and they are alot of money for little gain. most people I have heard who fitted a custom plenium have had to go to custom ecu which in it self is not always legal. I have seen plenty of skylines make 250+ rwkw with the stock plenium. so why change unless as I said you want an all out race car.  

btw if you can show me skyline with a custom plenium running the stock ecu and running well with cold start etc. I would be interested.  

btw mat lowth on these forums is making 270 rwkw + with the standard plenium and probably more .  

you car is fairly new and must drive beautifuly why ruin that if the are no major gains to be had.  

meggala

Originally posted by matlowth

Re: the idle - That's spot on - that's because they no longer use the idle control component... Cold start is no good either...

re: my car - as you said - it's made 316rwkw @ 14psi as of last week, and still running the crossover plenum - so there is definitely better mods to do before you consider the plenum.

matt

Damn Matt u r a sicko! so i guess that new T76 is working well to get over 300rwkw at only 14psi!:eek1:

The greedy ones have been flow test to make sure each cyclinder gets the same amount of air thats where the $$$ goes.

I think a greddy plenum and Q45 throttle body are about $1800-2000 ask Andrew i think he still has one ??

I don't know how much performance its going to give you but god dam does it make your engine bay look good :)

in regards to the idle control component, from memory, hills were saying they do retain it - now wether i was misinformed, heard incorrectly or not knowing what im talking about is another story :D is it impossible to retain the idle control component on a custom plenum?

the message is very clear in what your saying. and that is, plenums are only beneficial with big HP and could, in some cases, cause more problems than anything.

i guess the answer i was looking for was wether or not the crossover piping is insignificant in terms of response. from the comments here it seems as though it isnt that bad....but i guess its just an age old thought that the additional piping is going to be significant...

I brought this up again at Hills today and they insist that it is a good mod. Maybe it is OK with the Hills Stage 1+2 upgrades ???

Mark doesn't usually put his goolies on the line like that without something to back it up......

:cool: Sure is! No more laggy either! :)

U coming this sunday?

matt

Originally posted by INASNT

Damn Matt u r a sicko! so i guess that new T76 is working well to get over 300rwkw at only 14psi!:eek1:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • how do you know voltage is fine?  quick easy test is connect DMM up and put it on max/min mode, remove fuel pump fuse, crank car for 3-5s, go check min voltage You'd be surprised how many "healthy" batteries are showing under 10v during this test in cold weather. 
    • Not properly. You need to be able to dissipate 100 amps or so to doing it meaningfully. You can do it indirectly by watching to see how far the voltage falls during cranking. Unplug the coils or something else to prevent it from starting so you can get a good couple or three chugs. It also helps if you have the multimeter set up reading before you start, and that it has max/min functions. So you can catch the real minimum without having to watch the screen, which often doesn't update fast enough to show the real max/min in dynamic situations. Or use a digital oscilloscope, which can be obtained for <<$100 from Aliexpress (although I'd argue for paying up to ~$200 for a nicer one). A >4 yr old battery will very likely be well down the path to the knackery. Many only last 5-6 years these days. The cold weather lately will definitely make it worse.
    • Hmmm, what do you mean by getting weaker? And where did you get that test done? I've been wondering about my battery because the cold starts crank super slowly. The voltage is fine. Not sure if cranking amps can be checked at home. Battery is 4+ years old.
    • No. The simplest wastegate hookup, with no solenoid or other form of "boost control" (ie, control over your boost control, if you know what I mean) is a single hose, direct from the turbo outlet/hot pipe, straight and only to the wastegate actuator. It is that pressure signal that drives the wastegate to open, providing the boost control (and by "boost control" here, I mean, limiting how high it can go, which is essentially the spring pressure of the actuator). You only end up with tee pieces and alternate flow paths once you start adding things to the boost control system to allow you to determine how much of that boost signal makes it to the actuator. There are so many ways to do that that there is no single way to run the hoses and tees and the like. If you have a stock boost solenoid, then all it does is either allow all the boost signal to go to the actuator, or open up to allow some of it to bleed off. There needs to be a restriction in that bleeder to allow only a small amount to bleed off. And in a stock system, that would then be plumbed back to the turbo inlet (for "emissions control" reasons). That is actually what that nipple on your BOV return pipe could/would be for. If you have an aftermarket boost controller and solenoid, then the above is mostly true, but there is no need for a restrictor in the bleed, because the solenoid is pulse width modulated to create a variable bleed off. The air that escapes from the bleed can either be vented, or also returned to the turbo inlet. For emissions reasons it should be returned to inlet, but the amount of air being vented is so small that it really doesn't matter (either from an emissions perspective, or from an air-fuel ratio affecting perspective).
    • And other times you just need to go buy bigger injectors?
×
×
  • Create New...