Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys hope someone can help me. I have just recently been given a Nismo Short shift for my skyline from a friend who owns a recking yard, well he said it was a Nismo one anyway but it is missing the little plastic bit on the end.

Have tried using the standard one no good gets stuck also tried using a VL Turbo one no good.

Would anybody know were I could buy one from or even has one laying around that would fit sweet.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61186-need-help-with-nismo-short-shift/
Share on other sites

have you actually tried putting the stocker in a vice and prying it off?? thats how i got mine of, it snapped cause i wasnt careful but i just locklite it together again. and yes you cant pull it off by hand other wise it would fall off into the gbox when u took it out in the first place.

hope that helps.

Yeah I have tried putting the stocker in but it jams and doesn’t shift at all. I even tried it with nothing worked fine, it just had a little play when it N. Look might not even be for R33.

Yeah it has a spacer spacer on it. Can't remember if he got it off a 33 or a 34????

Any major differences?? I might post a picture in a few days so you guys get a better picture of what I have.

Thanks for the input. :rofl:

i know with the r33 the ball / socket part on the end of the shifter is the same size with both series 1 + 2 but the actual plastic bit is that clips on the end is a different size. Not too sure about 34 though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...