Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am looking at different ways to integrate the high/low map switch into my driving style. One current option I am considering is a throttle position sensor (using Jaycar kit KC5377) with a 3 way override switch. It would work this way:

3 way switch position:

Down = Low map

Middle = Throttle position sensor auto-select

Up = High map.

I can then program the throttle position sensor to automatically switch between high and low map based on how far I put my foot down - plant it and it switches to high map, back off it switches to low map (only possible in an auto!!). The beauty of this is the switch-over point is completely customisable :rofl:

Thoughts anyone?

  • Replies 1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I am looking at different ways to integrate the high/low map switch into my driving style. One current option I am considering is a throttle position sensor (using Jaycar kit KC5377) with a 3 way override switch. It would work this way:

3 way switch position:

Down = Low map

Middle = Throttle position sensor auto-select

Up = High map.

I can then program the throttle position sensor to automatically switch between high and low map based on how far I put my foot down - plant it and it switches to high map, back off it switches to low map (only possible in an auto!!). The beauty of this is the switch-over point is completely customisable :)  

Thoughts anyone?

OK, I have a thought....why?

I have never used the low map on mine, even in the rain the high map is fine. Maybe with another 60 rwkw, it might be, but I am not even sure of that.:rofl:

Hmmm... fair question. My reasoning is that the low map, being lower boost, would be more fuel efficent. If this is a misconception, please dispel it.

If your turbo is running at lower than its maximum efficiency on the "low boost map" and at its maximum efficiency on the "high boost map", then there are certainly arguments that say your are loosing economy. Obviously, if you drive around using zero boost, then "high" or "low" map makes no difference. At idle and cruise it the ECU is closed loop with a target A/F ratio, so "high" or "low" map would make no difference there either.

I reckon, tuning the A/F ratios (for open loop) will make more difference than "high" or "low" boost settings at the same speed. I would much rather have my turbo running at its maximum efficiency when I use the throttle, which is after all the most effective fuel economy device.

Interesting isn't it?:D

i finally got my iebc working 2 day after 2 weeks finished building it, had a few dramas but got there.. my r33 was running stock boost so i did get a big kick out of it after installing it, couldn't stop driving it.. boost definately comes on faster and smoother. one thing though, i cannot get boost over 8psi, even on the high map, i set it to 100% output put it only goes up to 8psi, i got a big fmic so i want to run 11psi, is there anything else i need to do to get more boost

i finally got my iebc working 2 day after 2 weeks finished building it, had a few dramas but got there.. my r33 was running stock boost so i did get a big kick out of it after installing it, couldn't stop driving it.. boost definately comes on faster and smoother. one thing though, i cannot get boost over 8psi, even on the high map, i set it to 100% output put it only goes up to 8psi, i got a big fmic so i want to run 11psi, is there anything else i need to do to get more boost

you have to lower the output.. 100% output means the soleniod is completely open.. sending all the air to the wastegate actuator (opening it)..

lower all your 100% output pts to say 60% or 70%.. if boost doesn't rise.. lower it even more..

mine is set to around 28%.. which gives me 15psi.. but every car is different.. so just play around..

Suggestions follow;

1. Nope, not in my experience

2. Yep, that's what I would expect, the higher gear means more load on the engine and therefore more exhaust gas flow. Hence more boost.

3. Nope, input point 19 corresponds with a certain injector duration.

I know where you are going, but don't worry about it. Because you have the wastegate closed, you are getting more boost at the IEBC input point than you would have if you had limited the boost. So the injector duration is higher than it would be if you had limited the boost, because the airflow is higher.

It's a closed loop (well almost), start limiting the boost (by opening the wategate) and you won't have a problem, because the injector duration will change. This will mean a different input point on the IEBC, which you have set at a different wastegate opening. As I said, it's a circle, by not limiting the maximum boost you have broken the circle.

I have read that again and it makes sense to me, I hope it makes sense to you.

after playing around for about an hour I finally got a map which holds boost in every gear.. a nice 14.5-15psi in every gear..

the output duty range i'm using is quiet low (2%-28%).. according to the mag i should increase the vent size.. should this really matter tho? does it have any ill effects on the soleniod?

one thing i did notice is that altho boost seems to hold very well in every gear.. if I rev thru the gears very fast.. and change from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th at close to red line.. i get a small spike from 2nd->3rd and 3rd to 4th..

1st.. 14.5psi all the way to red line..

2nd.. 14.5psi all the way to red line..

2nd->3rd.. 16psi.. and settles on 15psi to red line..

3rd->4th.. 16psi.. and settles on 15psi.. then i run out of road.. :headspin:

any theories on this? or does you car do this?

i will post up my map in a second..

I have been running the DFA in my 180 (SR20DET) for a few weeks now. I've recently put in a Greddy boost gauge; I hooked up between the plenum and fuel pressure regulator (I think thats what it was).

I just have a few questions.

Firstly, the only mods I have is a 'very breathable' exhaust and a (old dirty) K/N pod filter. The exhaust is breathable because it's a 3" CES dump/front pipe + high flow cat + N1-style 3" catback which has barely any bends in it at all. It's kinda loud at full throttle too but not as loud as some.

Anyway, with my boost gauge - because it's on the plenum side of the throttle, it shows about -500mm Hg vacuum on idle, and upon pushing the accelerator, goes down (up) to about atmospheric pressure (0 on the gauge), as you'd expect. Is where I connected it the best place? or is it better on the other side of the throttle? I'd guess not because then it'd read pressures seen by the BOV and would not be as useful.

I ask because, I have no boost mods and it's reading about 0.85 bar. This is stock (seems to spike to about 0.9 then settle at 0.8 or just a bee's dick over). That's about 12-13 psi. It doesn't feel really that powerful too, though I haven't had it dynoed or anything. Is this an inaccurate reading or has my exhaust really added 5 psi to my boost? I'm a bit saddened now because I don't want to increase the boost any more with the IEBC when I install it - I'll only just try to get more boost down low. So no more power until I one day get a FMIC :rofl:

The other question I have is for those using the DFA.

Like I said, I've had it in for a while and I have currently no way of reading or knowing what the AFR is, so I'm doing it by feel.

I've pretty much set it to -7 for all points (starting at around 36 or 38, my car idles at about 40) until about 100 when I set it down on a slope to about -20 or so by load point 128 (at full boost it reaches about 123 or so). I had it at -6 for a while then changed it today to -7 and it has helped a few things - low end (off boost) response, the 'burbling' (backfiring) I get when slowing down completely off throttle at sub-2000rpm, and backfiring when changing gears up whilst at full throttle at high revs.

I still do get burbling though, but what I'm not sure about is how far to lean it generally. Is -10 a lot? or a little? Is -20 a better choice? I've been adjusting it by 1, I started at -3 then went to -4 and now I'm at -7. I know that at cruising and idling, the ECU uses the closed loop feedback from the oxygen sensor, so it would ignore my settings for this, but like I said, the adjustments to -7 I've made for load points ~38 - 100 have helped (though not the hugest).

Also, should I expect an improvement in power with the DFA? I haven't noticed any at all on full throttle to be honest. Just down low rpm its a tiny bit more grunty and less sloppy.

;) Thanks

I have been running the DFA in my 180 (SR20DET) for a few weeks now. I've recently put in a Greddy boost gauge; I hooked up between the plenum and fuel pressure regulator (I think thats what it was).  

I just have a few questions.  

Firstly, the only mods I have is a 'very breathable' exhaust and a (old dirty) K/N pod filter. The exhaust is breathable because it's a 3" CES dump/front pipe + high flow cat + N1-style 3" catback which has barely any bends in it at all. It's kinda loud at full throttle too but not as loud as some.  

Anyway, with my boost gauge - because it's on the plenum side of the throttle, it shows about -500mm Hg vacuum on idle, and upon pushing the accelerator, goes down (up) to about atmospheric pressure (0 on the gauge), as you'd expect. Is where I connected it the best place? or is it better on the other side of the throttle? I'd guess not because then it'd read pressures seen by the BOV and would not be as useful.  

I ask because, I have no boost mods and it's reading about 0.85 bar. This is stock (seems to spike to about 0.9 then settle at 0.8 or just a bee's dick over). That's about 12-13 psi. It doesn't feel really that powerful too, though I haven't had it dynoed or anything. Is this an inaccurate reading or has my exhaust really added 5 psi to my boost? I'm a bit saddened now because I don't want to increase the boost any more with the IEBC when I install it - I'll only just try to get more boost down low. So no more power until I one day get a FMIC ;)

The other question I have is for those using the DFA.  

Like I said, I've had it in for a while and I have currently no way of reading or knowing what the AFR is, so I'm doing it by feel.  

I've pretty much set it to -7 for all points (starting at around 36 or 38, my car idles at about 40) until about 100 when I set it down on a slope to about -20 or so by load point 128 (at full boost it reaches about 123 or so). I had it at -6 for a while then changed it today to -7 and it has helped a few things - low end (off boost) response, the 'burbling' (backfiring) I get when slowing down completely off throttle at sub-2000rpm, and backfiring when changing gears up whilst at full throttle at high revs.  

I still do get burbling though, but what I'm not sure about is how far to lean it generally. Is -10 a lot? or a little? Is -20 a better choice? I've been adjusting it by 1, I started at -3 then went to -4 and now I'm at -7. I know that at cruising and idling, the ECU uses the closed loop feedback from the oxygen sensor, so it would ignore my settings for this, but like I said, the adjustments to -7 I've made for load points ~38 - 100 have helped (though not the hugest).

Also, should I expect an improvement in power with the DFA? I haven't noticed any at all on full throttle to be honest. Just down low rpm its a tiny bit more grunty and less sloppy.

:) Thanks

First off, any questions about SR's should realy be directed to the Silvia forum, however I am willing and able to answer DFA questions.

Firstly I would NEVER EVER connect a boost gauge between the fuel pressure regulator and the plenum. If you get a small leak in the long vacuum hose to the gauge, it will lean off the engine as the fuel pressure will drop. I would always use a unique connection for a boost gauge, that way if it leaks you will get rich running.

My understanding is S13's run 10 psi standard, you should expect around 1 psi increase fro m the exhaust. Maybe your boost gauge is 1 psi out then. Check others people's experiences on the Silvia forums.

Secondly, what you are doing is very dangerous, leaning off an engine without any A/F ratio readings is asking for trouble. So be VERY careful, make adjustments slowly, listen for pinging and check the spark plug colour regularly.

My suggestion is to get along to your next local club dyno day and spend the $25 or so finding out where you are at with A/F ratios. At least you will know if you are heading in the right direction.

I tuned a full set of DFA maps in 20 minutes on the dyno, it's not a big cost. Especially compared to a new set of pistons, which is what you will need if you go too far.

You will find a big improvement in boost build with the IEBC. Take your time tuning the maps and you will be amazed at how fast you can have lots of boost.

:rofl:

Hi guys, it is not impossible that is is a bad component, but (based on my experience) it is unlikely.  Burnt resistors are a sign of excessive load (going through them), so I would work my way through the circuit diagram and check the components on either side of the resistor.

Let's give it a go using the circuit diagram on page 141 of Performance Electronics for Cars;

IEBC_Circuit_Diag_PS.jpg

It's a 10ohm resistor that sits between diode 2 and and zener diode 2 in the power supply circuit comtrolled by reg 1.  So I would be checking the polarity of D2, ZD2 and Reg 1 and the value of the 1000uf, 10uf and 1000nf capacitors.  I have marked them with red dots on the cicuit layout below (page 137 of Performance Electronics for Cars);.

IEBC_Circuit_Diag_Layout_2.jpg

I know someone has already suggested it, but the problem is in the power supply circuit, so the first thing I make ABSOLUTELY sure of is that the polarity of the power source is correct.   Test it at least 3 ways, such as wire colour, multimeter voltage in and multimeter voltage out.  The test voltages are shown on the circuit diagram above.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Ok I have tested my resistor for this, and all these components look fine, my hand controller was not plugged in, nor was my input/output.

It's strange that fusion would have the same resistor burn up and put it down to the h/c cable, yet mine isn't plugged in and this resistor burns.

Also it worked fine before, all I did was unplug it, mount it and plug it back in. The 12v is coming from my accessories as it was before (I'm actually scared to wire it up to the ECU power now incase it causes something bad to happen). I've double checked the polarity is correct.

I'm all out of ideas - my last hope as I see it is replace all the components S-Kid has outlined in red and try again.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Ok I have tested my resistor for this, and all these components look fine, my hand controller was not plugged in, nor was my input/output.

It's strange that fusion would have the same resistor burn up and put it down to the h/c cable, yet mine isn't plugged in and this resistor burns.

Also it worked fine before, all I did was unplug it, mount it and plug it back in. The 12v is coming from my accessories as it was before (I'm actually scared to wire it up to the ECU power now incase it causes something bad to happen). I've double checked the polarity is correct.

I'm all out of ideas - my last hope as I see it is replace all the components S-Kid has outlined in red and try again.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

The problem is in the power supply circuit, that usually means reversed polarity, voltage spike, poor earth or too much load. On the diagrams I posted it has the voltages (12v, 11.4v and 5v) at various points on the circuit. Check them once you have replaced the resistor. That will tell you which direction to head when looking for the real culprit. Make sure you know where the test points are and be ready with the multimeter, before you turn on the power. Check the voltages real fast, you won't have long to stuff around.

:)

I have been running the DFA in my 180 (SR20DET) for a few weeks now. I've recently put in a Greddy boost gauge; I hooked up between the plenum and fuel pressure regulator (I think thats what it was).  

I just have a few questions.  

Firstly, the only mods I have is a 'very breathable' exhaust and a (old dirty) K/N pod filter. The exhaust is breathable because it's a 3" CES dump/front pipe + high flow cat + N1-style 3" catback which has barely any bends in it at all. It's kinda loud at full throttle too but not as loud as some.  

Anyway, with my boost gauge - because it's on the plenum side of the throttle, it shows about -500mm Hg vacuum on idle, and upon pushing the accelerator, goes down (up) to about atmospheric pressure (0 on the gauge), as you'd expect. Is where I connected it the best place? or is it better on the other side of the throttle? I'd guess not because then it'd read pressures seen by the BOV and would not be as useful.  

I ask because, I have no boost mods and it's reading about 0.85 bar. This is stock (seems to spike to about 0.9 then settle at 0.8 or just a bee's dick over). That's about 12-13 psi. It doesn't feel really that powerful too, though I haven't had it dynoed or anything. Is this an inaccurate reading or has my exhaust really added 5 psi to my boost? I'm a bit saddened now because I don't want to increase the boost any more with the IEBC when I install it - I'll only just try to get more boost down low. So no more power until I one day get a FMIC :)

:D Thanks

Hey man,

Still havent put my IEBC in because i was waiting for my Pivot stepping motor boost gauge to arrive. Its here and in now, I connected the tubing using a tee piece from the existing stock boost gauge take off hose.

My gtst has a cat back exhaust and a pod filter, and without the IEBC in is running 0.75 to 0.78 bar boost, which is 10.8 to 11.3 PSI. So no boost increase for me either, i'll just have to try for quicker boost build-up. Im pretty sure i dont even have a aftermarket dump/front pipe (unless its the rusty thing thats under the heat shielding.)

I know they are different cars and engines but i dont think the gauges would be off. I know mine is brand new.

My gtst has a cat back exhaust and a pod filter, and without the IEBC in is running 0.75 to 0.78 bar boost, which is 10.8 to 11.3 PSI.

Why? Surely a simple question, but maybe not. I have an R32GTST with a high flowed RB25DET turbo with a split dump, no cat and a 4" Apexi titanium exhaust and it runs 10 psi. It had 10 psi with the standard RB20DET turbo, standard dump, original 1990 cat, and a 3" no name exhaust. I did not get 0.1 psi increase in boost when I changed over.

The common link here is the standard R32 GTST wastegate actuator, it is 10psi. So I would expect nothing more (or nothing less) than 10psi.

My experience was the standard wastegate started opening at 5 psi, so you should find a big difference with the IEBC.:)

The problem is in the power supply circuit, that usually means reversed polarity, voltage spike, poor earth or too much load.  On the diagrams I posted it has the voltages (12v, 11.4v and 5v) at various points on the circuit.  Check them once you have replaced the resistor.  That will tell you which direction to head when looking for the real culprit.  Make sure you know where the test points are and be ready with the multimeter, before you turn on the power. Check the voltages real fast, you won't have long to stuff around.

:D

Thanks S-Kid that's exactly what I wanted to hear.

The reversed polarity thing is getting to me. I'm going to try to flip the polarity over from what I think is right just on the off chance the wiring got switched somewhere along the way... I don't see how it's possible but at this stage murphy's law should be eliminated.

I'll check the ground too.. I have 5 resistors left so when I exhaust those I'll head back to jaycar, buy another pack and a multimeter :P

Thanks S-Kid.

About how long does it take to tune the boost controller while driving. Can you get it pretty well set up after about 30mins to 1hr of driving? Combined with the fuel adjuster could you eliminate the richened mixture and retard you get from increased airflow that people talk about when running higher boost i.e because you are trimming the AFM signal? I guess you may have to retard base timing 1-2 degrees in some cases if pinging is detected...

Some people say that once you hear it pinging it is too late. I think most turners use their ear along with knock sensors right? I have heard my car ping, and it has a knock sensor so it obviously didn't detect it (I didn't feel it retard timing). Since the R34 cooler went in I have not heard pinging..maybe it was more inlet temp related?

Thanks

About how long does it take to tune the boost controller while driving. Can you get it pretty well set up after about 30mins to 1hr of driving?  Combined with the fuel adjuster could you eliminate the richened mixture and retard you get from increased airflow that people talk about when running higher boost  i.e because you are trimming the AFM signal?  I guess you may have to retard base timing 1-2 degrees in some cases if pinging is detected...

Some people say that once you hear it pinging it is too late.  I think most turners use their ear along with knock sensors right?  I have heard my car ping, and it has a knock sensor so it obviously didn't detect it (I didn't feel it retard timing).    Since the R34 cooler went in I have not heard pinging..maybe it was more inlet  temp related?

Thanks

Couple of interesting questions there, let's start with pinging.

The standard ECU doesn't warn of knock until ~40. I have no idea what 40 means. Is it %, number of occurances in minute, a second, loudness, there is one microphone on some RB's and 2 on others, is 40 on one with 2 microphones twice as bad as 40 on one with one???? To me it doesn't matter, the fact is it is not ZERO, that means SOME knock is OK with Nissan. Keep in mind 40 is a lot of pinging at low to mid rpms, it comes up pretty fast at 7,500 rpm.

So I have heard plenty and seen no ECU response. After many years of tuning high performance engines, I can hear one ping and identify it. So I am not a subscriber to the line "that once you hear it pinging it is too late". I tune my own engines by advancing the ignition timing until it pings, then retard it a little. We have a pair of Snap On brand headphones/amp/mike in the dyno room which can hear even the lightest ping.

I spent a long time tuning my boost curve, maybe 3 hours all up, spread over a couple of weeks. It was really hard when I tried it on my own, watch boost gauge, Controller and the road, all at the same time while doing warp speed. You need to have high injectors loads to confirm the settings, particularly if you do what I did and try to hold the boost stable all the way to the rev limit. This requires carefull/progressive closing of the wastegate (reducing solenoid duty cycle).

It was much faster on the second car I did, because I had the owner driving it and I knew what to look for. Plus I found a nice long hill that gives enough load without doing warp speed. I had a really good boost curve and dynamite boost build in a bit under 10 minutes.

Best suggestion I can give is to have a good play with the Controller before you move and get someone else to drive or point a video camera at the boost gauge and the controller. That way you can plug in most of the load points by watching the video.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Thanks for the responses. Sorry to side track the thread a bit. So the fact that I can hear slight pinging while driving and the ECU doent do anything means that is is below 40. Is this normal to hear some pinging and it still be below 40? Or should I be replacing the knock sensor?

Are you going to limit the turbo life much by eliminating wastegate creep and the boost drop off?

I don't really reach max boost (only get to about 4-5psi) in 1st gear when I get about 7-8psi in the other gears. This is an R33 manual with the solenoid earthed. Is this normal. WIll I get more boost in 1st with this setup?

Thanks for the responses.  Sorry to side track the thread a bit.

1. So the fact that I can hear slight pinging while driving and the ECU doent do anything means that is is below 40. Is this normal to hear some pinging and it still be below 40? Or should I be replacing the knock sensor?  

2. Are you going to limit the turbo life much by eliminating wastegate creep and the boost drop off?  

3. I don't really reach max boost (only get to about 4-5psi) in 1st gear when I get about 7-8psi in the other gears.  This is an R33 manual with the solenoid earthed.   Is this normal.  WIll I get more boost in 1st with this setup?

Suggestions follow;

1. I think the real question here is why is it pinging? It is not good, so I would always fix it.

2. Nope

3. Ist gear, being a low ratio, doesn't develop a lot of load on the engine. Less load = lower exhaust volume and that = less turbo rpm and that = less boost. The IEBC will make sure the wastegate is absolutely closed, so it will develop the highest boost your engine and turbo will produce.

:cheers:

The pinging has gone since I fitted the R34 intercooler but I will check my base timing.

I realise that with 1st gear there is not as much load on the engine - thought I could still reach max boost though. Maybe the boost controller may help develop a little more boost...

Thanks for thie info

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1680, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...