Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Strut Braces Group Buy #3

My supplier in brisbane has over 2000 strut braces in stock. Here is a list of his prices:

buy 1 for $70

buy 5 for $65 each

buy 10 for $60 each

buy 15 ir more for $55 each

Postage is $13 for 1 and $15 for 2.

Here is the list of strut braces I can get

skyline

R33 front strut brace

R32 (incl GTR) front and rear strut brace

Silvia

s13 front and rear strut brace

ca18 - requires a little mod

sr20

Supra

Fits JZ80 and 70 series front strut brace

Soarar

Fits on soarer twin turbo and non turbo front strut brace

Over the next few days/week I will see how many people are interested and let you all know what the cost will be. If everthing goes good I will then need the money from the buyers and I will get the parts and send them out to you guys. Delivery takes between 3-5 days

End date 4/2/05

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61690-strut-brace-group-buy/
Share on other sites

Just like to say i just picked up my strut brace tonight.....

Very good quality for the price....

Very very happy and suggest anyone who does not have one and wants one... then this is your man....

hi,

i dont mean to speak out of turn here, but i have one of these braces - well it looks physically exactly the same - and while i just cannot fault the manufacturing, i have to say that i'm not that impressed with the design ...

once it is installed, you cannot adjust it to make it slightly tighter, you basically make it the right size to fit the shocks on either side, and place it over the bolts, or squeeze it over the bolts, replace the nuts, tighten them up, and that it ... no more adjustment ...

just not a great desigm imho

just my 2c

hi,

i dont mean to speak out of turn here, but i have one of these braces - well it looks physically exactly the same - and while i just cannot fault the manufacturing, i have to say that i'm not that impressed with the design ...

once it is installed, you cannot adjust it to make it slightly tighter, you basically make it the right size to fit the shocks on either side, and place it over the bolts, or squeeze it over the bolts, replace the nuts, tighten them up, and that it ... no more adjustment ...

just not a great desigm imho

just my 2c

what are you talking about??? use the alan key bolts to tighten the brace. :P

ahh, this one must be different then ... couldnt see ANY method of tighening the one i have ... will pull it all apart and replace the existing bolts with allen heads ...

sorry if i put anyone off, i was in the wrong ...

cheers

what are you talking about??? use the alan key bolts to tighten the brace. :P

Hiroshima Screamer : My supplier has heaps left. But I wait till I have enough people to make the group buy, then I go and get a batch. If you want, the next batch I get I will get r32 front for you?

ahh, this one must be different then ... couldnt see ANY method of tighening the one i have ... will pull it all apart and replace the existing bolts with allen heads ...

sorry if i put anyone off, i was in the wrong ...

cheers

You don't need to buy allen key bolts. Just where the actual brace meets the bracket you will need to tighten those bolts and that will tighten the brace. Easy :D

1 R33 left without group buy. For anything else it will be put on the list to be order from the supplier. Takes 1 hr to get the parts.

Just a question, in the picture with the 33, does the brace get into the way when trying to change the spark plugs?

The big silver pipe that goes into the intake manifold, can it still be turned upwards to access spark plugs or is the brace in the way.

Thanks.

gtrGhosTDoGG11: I haven't taken the cover off yet to see if it gets in the way. But I reckon I would have to take it off to get to them. Small price to pay though for better handling.

MarkE: Juls bought an r32 off me for R31 was going to make a small mod to fit it. Dont know the results though. Maybe you can ask.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...