Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I hope someone out there can help me. I've got a '93 R33 GTS25 which need new front pads. I'm looking at EBC pads and can't find the actual size I need. EBC have two sizes listed; DP1082 and 1046 but without pulling my old ones out and physically measuring them they can't tell me what I need. My car is not the 'S type' and is still bog standard brake wise. If anyone has replaced their front pads in a '93 and can remember the product code and brand I might be able to match them up. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62042-front-brake-pads-gts25/
Share on other sites

As far as I'm aware all the R33 non turbos have the same brakes, but I'm not 100% sure though.

I have a R33 GTS25 non type s and my brakes are 155mm long from tip to tip and have a width of 50mm.

So I hope thats of some help.

sorry for offtopic: but what exactly is the S type?

Repco or Autobarn wud usually have a book on the fitment wudnt they?

Type S, has a few standard extras, LSD, an extra few kw at the fly wheel, a different rear muffler, and a rear sway bar, well my friends one has anyway, and maybe a couple of extra things I have over looked.

Thanks everyone. The difference between the two pads I've been quoted on is minimal, both sets are 155 mm long and 17 mm, the width varies. One set is 53 mm wide the other is 49 mm. I know its only a small variation and the pads themselves are the same profile other than the width, just needed to know what difference it would make.

I guess the thicker ones wud clamp reasonably earlier than the thinner ones.

In the end they'd wear down anyway - so I'd say if the thicker ones fit then go for them, you'd

get more life out of them as well i am assuming.

skyla: thnx, I guess I "might" have a type S - stock exhaust has a little flap thing which I am curious about.

skyla: thnx, I guess I "might" have a type S - stock exhaust has a little flap thing which I am curious about.

Yeah it sounds like it, my mates one also has hicas, and red badges on the front guard insted of blue like mine

skyla: thnx, I guess I "might" have a type S - stock exhaust has a little flap thing which I am curious about.

That little flap is meant to be attached to a cable to allow u to open up the exhaust fulli. Its meant to open up at high revs and then close againt at lower revs for a more quieter note. Im yet to find a car that actualli has that cable but me and my dad were thinkin of somehow creatin a mechanism that opens up that second exhaust route at high revs to give a much better sound. In the end we couldnt be bothered so i just slapped a magna flow on instead.

That little flap is meant to be attached to a cable to allow u to open up the exhaust fulli. Its meant to open up at high revs and then close againt at lower revs for a more quieter note. Im yet to find a car that actualli has that cable but me and my dad were thinkin of somehow creatin a mechanism that opens up that second exhaust route at high revs to give a much better sound. In the end we couldnt be bothered so i just slapped a magna flow on instead.

Got the flap, the cable and the actuator on mine. Actuator is located inside the LH rear gaurd, below/in front of where the jack lives. Not sure what RPM level it activates at - I think I read > 4000 rpm somewhere?

yeah, i have it on mine also - when i chnaged to a 2.5" system i just left the cable in place where it once was and zip tied it outta the way - lol

and i don't know if my HICAS is locked - i am yet to see the light conme one (except when starting car of course) i assume it's locked - how cna i tell?

And about the LSD - when i do a burnout i get both wheels smoking :rant: but whats an official way to determine if your has it?

yup mine has the cable to open the flap too - I have yet to see it open though (cos I'm always

driving when it opens up I guess :rant:)

gatty: You can tell that your hicas is locked or not by doing a diagnostic (do a search), you can actually see the rear wheels move when your stationary.

Or when you drive, particularly around a roundabout, you can feel the rear end of the

car running sideways, it feels sort of drifty but obviously not on such an angle.

HICAS-bar-1.jpg

HICAS LOCK BAR

HICAS-bar-9.jpg

HICAS LOCK ON THE CAR

OR you cud just check under the car. :rant:

Dont quote me on any of this :) but from what I gather...

An LSD (limited slip diff) will let both wheels spin at different speeds, but it will just limit the amount of difference between them. So basically when you go around a corner, the

inside wheel will spin slower as it has less distance to travel.

I dont think a burnout is the correct way to determine that both wheels are spinning at

the same speeds. But if your wheels are spinning at the same speeds around a corner

(its most probably a locked diff) the inside wheel will chirp.

This is good for dragging, drifting and other straight line stuff ( I am not sure what is

appropiate for track work) But for street use the stcok LSD shud be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...