Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just letting everyone know that i can source any autometer product direct from america for cheaper than retail prices. everythign is totally legit. if you go to http://hp.autometer.com/buyers_guide/produ...duct_lines.html and look up the products and they're respective codes and get back to me i will give you a quote asap.

cheers

maurice

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62060-fs-autometer-gauges/
Share on other sites

2172 $70 retail $85

there doesnt seem to be any mounting cups for that size in my book. dont think they supply cups for those. those gauges are usually used outside of the car for testing and stuff. are there any 2 1/16 gauges that you wouild like to puirchase? they're a small gaug also.

Cool, thanks for that.

The 2 1/16 gauge is still a bit too big for where I want to mount it (on top of the steering colum) without covering up the speedo/tacho etc..

I think you can get mounting plates for that size - like the 3 gauge mounts but for just one gauge.

What would the turn around time from payment to receiving the gauge be?

Cheers

Jayson

the wait is arouns 2 weeks after payment is made

thommo; 4353 my price 360 retail 460

4453 my price 370 retail 470

dane: 2300 my price 140 retail 200

2303 my price 140 retail 210

let me know what u guys think

postage will be around $30 . as they come from teh us and then to act. some of the postage cost from the us i will be paying also. i make less profit and try and sell more in order to make money and make up for 2 postage costs. know what i mean? so all up your payiing 310 instead of 410 so your still saving 100.

dane:      2300 my price 140 retail 200

              2303 my price  140 retail 210

let me know what u guys think

So i will be paying $170 australia dollars for this gauge?? let me see what www.overboost.com will do it for, and i'll get back to you.

LANFOH:1586, 120  

             1528, 120

             1592, 100

             1538, 100

             1595  200

             7160  my price 380 retail price 420

deasert eagle:7159 my price 380 retail 420

Thanks bro will be in touch :P

yeah they're all in AUD. that is correct. so your in syd so if we can meet up then there wont be a local postage cost just the one from the us. never is to much really.u still end up saving heaps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...