Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are a million and one threads on this issue, so I suggest (without wanting to preach) that you search.

There are a lot of reasons HICAS can be out of whack, the most common being low on powersteering fluid (in R32s), and fitting an after market steering wheel without a) an appropriate boss or B) lining up the HICAS prongs properly.

LW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62104-hicas-light/#findComment-1172936
Share on other sites

I drove all through the dandenongs with a coupla mates' cars yesterday, no problems. On the way to work last night it came on around a long, constant, R.H. bend in the freeway. - I think it's coz of the small amount of slack that's developed in the steering, coz I had the wheel held nearly straight to turn the corner.

Series II R33 b.t.w.

P.s. - Has anyone actually grown to LIKE the creepy HICAS rear-steer when pushing-on through corners? It weirds-me-out bigtime.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62104-hicas-light/#findComment-1176441
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

The hicas light is referring to the four wheel steering most of the time. It's telling you it's not working properly but it's working fine. The light only comes on after driving on open straight roads for a period of time. The best solution is to have the rear wheel steering disabled with a lock bar( a simple piece of round bar put in place of the hydraulic ram that steers the rear wheels) The solution will prevent crabbing and makes the car more controllable while the car is drifting. The light will continue to come on after this but just ignore it. You have to remember these cars with hicas were built for tight streets in japan so when the car is not turning regularly it thinks something is wrong.

  • Nope 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62104-hicas-light/#findComment-5593006
Share on other sites

in my R33 NA i absolutely love the hicas. It is also far more noticiable on an NA because your throttle applications are far bigger which means the hicas turns more (hicas works on steering angle, throttle position and road speed).

on my R33 turbo i dont really notice it much (probably because it feels so obvious in the NA) but i still like the feel of it. Seems to drift just fine too but then again iv got very good suspension and very good rubber.

which is the comment i often give to people who blame the hicas on them losing their shit while doing a slide and looping it- sorry mate, it wasnt the hicas, it was a combination of your shitty tyres and noob driving technique while trying to be a hero.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62104-hicas-light/#findComment-5595200
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...