Jump to content
SAU Community

FS: Apexi AX53B70 380ps Turbo Kit for RB25DET

Phat6
 Share

Recommended Posts

Phat6 Enthusiast

Phat6

Posted
Posted

Hi all ... I have an Apex AX53B70 Turbo kit for sale ... it has been on my car for ~5000kms. No play, turbo is like brand new still and has always had the water lines connected and also had only good oil in the engine. Turbo is a great respone turbo and is rated for 380ps.

You get:

-AX53B70 380hp Turbo

-Stainless Exhaust Manifold - I think it is an Apex manifold (Heat Wrapped - no cracks)

-Stainless Dump Pipe

-All Braided Lines (Oil & Water)

-Silicon Joint (from Turbo to top piece)

-Cool Apex piece of piping from turbo to your standard cooler piping.

The kit is a direct BOLT UP to your RB25.

I am asking $3500 for the kit ... I have photos now - please see below

My power rating is unknown due to a sh**ty tune and not completing the car to get it actually Dyno run ... the turbo is still on my car and is boosting fine ... if anyone is interested however, and payment is made ... the turbo will come off in 1 night and sent the next day ...

Please PM me for more details if you are interested - no time wasters. Thanks guys ...

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

What model? Without looking it up there is the P21, P22 etc etc. It refers to the exhaust housing size, from memory its the A/R but in mm where Garrett state the A/R in inches. (Eg Garrett 0.87 is in Apexi IHI terms a P22)

Interested if the exhaust housing isnt on the large side...info to [email protected] when you can:)

Phat6 Enthusiast

Phat6

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What model? Without looking it up there is the P21, P22 etc etc. It refers to the exhaust housing size, from memory its the A/R but in mm where Garrett state the A/R in inches. (Eg Garrett 0.87 is in Apexi IHI terms a P22)

Interested if the exhaust housing isnt on the large side...info to [email protected] when you can:)

Um, that's actually a good question ... There is no marking on the actual Turbo itself ... I'll have another look and get back to you ...

Pics sent to both requests ...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • GTSBoy
      Howdy from the states.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...