Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing ABS - putting in slotted rotors

Edge
 Share

Recommended Posts

Edge Proficient

Edge

Posted
Posted

My R33 series 2

ABS motor died so want to just leave it disabled

Thinking of fitting slotted rotors to the front.

I heard that the brake piping bias is 90% to the front on ABS cars

but should be 70% if change to ABS.

Is this right, will I need to change the front to rear bias?

Need some advice.

.

Trust33 Grand Master

Trust33

Posted
Posted

How do you intend to adjust the brake bias?By buying an adjustable brake bias controller?Call a brake specialist to answer your brake bias question.

Exactly what is wrong with the abs box is it a blockage??Why dont you get it checked out and see if it can be fixed.It's worth a try.Or get a new 1.Or 2nd hand 1 etc...

I did some reading up and as u have confirmed the brakes will still function normally just without the abs.A warning light should also come on your dash telling u that your abs has sh*t itself.

I know nothing about abs brakes.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

well you haven't even said whether it's an ATTESSA 4WD or 2WD Skyline, that would help..

The discs shouldn't be any different to any other discs.. take off the old ones, and put on the new. The ABS is a separate issue..

Edge Proficient

Edge

Posted
  • Author
Posted

predator

Its a 2wd gtst, thanks.

Trust33

First thing I did was find out from Nissan using their consult device that the reading given is "motor off". Nissan told me to replace it.

The adjustable brake bias controller sounds interesting.

Replacing it - All up to replace it the labour cost is high and I've never experienced the ABS working properly as it was on its way out from the day I bought my car, the on off pulse was so slow, so I'm not sure if its worth fixing.

Does anyone with ABS think it works well in the skyline?

How is the vibration, does it pulse fast enough when it is working properly. For example how much slower vibration to volvo for comparisson.

If the R33 gtst ABS is any good then I guess I'd like to know who can replace my ABS motor unit and charge me less please. I'll supply the brake fluid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • joshuaho96
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • jayden_l33
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By jayden_l33 · Posted

      It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...