Jump to content
SAU Community

Realiability of a R32 GTR??

CAT_SPEW
 Share

Recommended Posts

CAT_SPEW Rising Star

CAT_SPEW

Posted
Posted

I am thinking of importing a 32 GTR or GTST, and I have heard that the GTR's are prone to "blowing" up due to their age when they get over here and the thrashing they get in Japan??

Can anyone fill me in, and also if you know of any good, cheap, reliable importers in the brisbane area, please let me know.

Cheers, Matt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62478-realiability-of-a-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites
LISTEN 180SX Enthusiast

LISTEN 180SX

Posted
Posted

The BEST importers as far as i'm concerned are SVI in Virginia, Brisbane. They are reliable, honest, trustworthy and no bullshit in anything they say/do. They're also one of the original importers around, so they know their stuff.

www.svi.com.au or email the owner on [email protected]

i imported my 180SX through them 18 months ago, and just finished importing an R32 GTR through them too!

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

Theres no way of telling how long the engine/car will last before you buy it... best thing is to budget some spare money to fix things when they break initially, fix them once, and then look after them... as the other thread i just read before this said - the RB engines last a long time when they are looked after and not modified... even modified can last a while when they are looked after.

aKTiVE Collaborator

aKTiVE

Posted
Posted

Just because you can afford to buy a gtr, doesnt mean you can afford to own a gtr.

If money is sometimes a concern, i would definitely go for a gts-t.

A lot of *younger* people i know, are going GTR mad, because they are for sale from importers from as little at $16,000 (pretty rough looking ones), but the maintenance costs on them can be very high.... and they cant afford to fix them when they fcuk up... so they are stuck with a 'cheap' GTR that goes no where, and they cant sell it because they will lose the majority of the cash they have already spent... not a good place to be in.

Dont buy a cheap GTR, spend the cash and get a good one if you go down that path - but be prepared for significant maintenance costs.

GTST is a safe option... maybe u should start at a GTST then later upgrade to a GTR??

*shrugs*

slow13dude Rising Star

slow13dude

Posted
Posted

R32 GTRs can be just as unreliable or reliable as any other cars.

So the price range for R32 GTRs at the moment is around $16000-$35000.

Like anything, you buy from the bottom of the price range and you will get a car accordingly.

Remember they were manufactured from 1989 to 1994. If you're really paranoid, try to get a really clean 1994 model. Then you have a car that's *only* 11 years old.

Just don't get a really cheap 1989 thrashed out example then bitch about it.

DAN00H Mentor

DAN00H

Posted
Posted
R32 GTRs can be just as unreliable or reliable as any other cars.

So the price range for R32 GTRs at the moment is around $16000-$35000.

Like anything, you buy from the bottom of the price range and you will get a car accordingly.

Remember they were manufactured from 1989 to 1994.  If you're really paranoid, try to get a really clean 1994 model.  Then you have a car that's *only* 11 years old.

Just don't get a really cheap 1989 thrashed out example then bitch about it.

Hey, my nice clean 89 track battler is still going strong!!! (yes, I believe it saw the track at times!) I bought early - before the rush on the 89's and managed to get a good example for good $$$. Prestige motorsport.

Jonneh Bravo Grand Master

Jonneh Bravo

Posted
Posted

id like to have a beer with duncan. id like to have a beer with duncan cause duncans my mate. :D anyways i think all skylines are reliable and u always pay for what u get. but be awared the more modifications that are on the car from japan the more chance that it will be a shocker. i say buy a full stocker and build it urself

godzla32 Collaborator

godzla32

Posted
Posted
R32 GTRs can be just as unreliable or reliable as any other cars.

So the price range for R32 GTRs at the moment is around $16000-$35000.

Like anything, you buy from the bottom of the price range and you will get a car accordingly.

Remember they were manufactured from 1989 to 1994.  If you're really paranoid, try to get a really clean 1994 model.  Then you have a car that's *only* 11 years old.

Just don't get a really cheap 1989 thrashed out example then bitch about it.

I couldnt agree more i brought a 92 GTR $25k nearly two years ago and have spent a fair bit getting to the standard i want without even modifying it...

So if you buy a 89 model be prepared to spend money on it...

The best scenario is to get an 93 or 94 model but the trouble is finding one and if you are willing to pay 30k plus..

i personally think the its better off buying a later model rather than buying an 89 that needs heaps of cash poured into it...

slow13dude Rising Star

slow13dude

Posted
Posted
For 35k, you would be able to get a R33 GTR V-Spec....

Yep sure, it's the concept of natural variation.

The best R32 GTRs may cost more than the worst R33 GTRs. Correct, but missing the point.

Personally I would still have got an R32 GTR if I could afford an R33 GTR because the R33 is fugly.

DJ984 Mentor

DJ984

Posted
Posted

I really couldn't be bothered reading thru all the posts here, too lazy lol!

But inregards to the original posts:

i think the following applies:

1) you get what you pay for

2) the product reflects the salesperson...

so yeah, go with someone you feel you can trust after talking to them and don't get one car over another 'cause you'll save a few bucks... you'll most likely spend twice what you save in repairs in the end.

I had a 89 R32 GTR imported privately and havn't had a single problem yet... it's a pure dream... but i know people who have had the opposite so yeah...

Good luck with what ever you decide :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...