Jump to content
SAU Community

Stuffed Turbo Seals, Blowby or something else?

RB30-POWER

By RB30-POWER,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

Just pulled the turbo apart to have a quick look over before I bolt it onto an engine im building, and i found some oil in there, well quite abit actually.

I've not really ever heard of the seal really failing at such a young age on these turbo's so im not 100% sure its that.

If it was an older turbo i would understand, and surely if the turbo was boosted to a high level, which could cause the seals to wear quicker, surely it would be missing the rear wheel. So im not sure its been boosted/flogged either.

What I can say, is i got the motor 40k on clock (genuine),

*the cross over had no oil in it,

*the plenum didnt really have any in it either

I didn't get the cooler, so its hard to say if the oil was getting trapped in that and not getting to the throttle body etc.

If it were excessive blowby, because the breathers go directly into the turbo compressor inlet, wouldnt you see oil on the entry to the turbo, or would it get sucked stright into the blades and not mark the walls?

The motor has been sitting for sometime before i got my hands on it, maybe 12 months or more, so maybe it ran from somewhere else?

Have a look and tell us what you think.

Cheers

turbo1.jpg

turbo2.jpg

turbo3.jpg

turbo4.jpg

OVL-747 Enthusiast

OVL-747

Posted
Posted

oil will always run along the inside of a pipe rather than float in the air , so therefore if the breathers return before the comp wheel , then it will find its way and build up on the inside of the cover as the fotos state.

a kink or blockage in the return line can also cause oil to back up , basically up and thru the chra , this can push out thru a seal aswell.

personally with the motor going into ur car , i wouldnt trust that turbo , spend 500 quid and get it rebuilt , even if it is in perfect condition to start with , its peice of mind id prefer.

ps - is this mick?

cheers

andrew

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
  • Author
Posted
personally with the motor going into ur car , i wouldnt trust that turbo , spend 500 quid and get it rebuilt , even if it is in perfect condition to start with , its peice of mind id prefer.

ps - is this mick?

cheers

andrew

What the hell are you doing around here Andy :D

Yeah, well its not going into my car to be exact, im building the motor to go into my brothers skyline. (see if they are any good before i put one in the cal, lol)

I just want to use the turbo to get it up and running for a while until i do the ecu, injectors and bigger turbo.

But what I don't want to do is put it on, and get everything filled with oil and make a mess. Cylinders, cooler piping, cat, plenum etc etc.

Its weird all the vl turbo's i've pulled down have always been clean as, considering the thousands of km's they would have done.

Get a late model high tech bb nissan turbo and its full of oil, go figure...

I think ill throw it on and take the risk, its probally just the breathers that caused the buildup, but im hoping some other Nissan guru's have pulled theirs down and maybe found /or not found the same thing, to confirm its health.

:D

cameron Mentor

cameron

Posted
Posted

Thats normal, oil their to lubricate the shaft/wheels in the turbo and you usally get a thin spread on the intake funnel aswel.

If it were blowby then you would proberly have burning oil smell coming from you'r exhaust and with a blow turbo seel same thing. - White Smoke.

:D

Jun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LegendGTR
      EFR7670 exhaust selection RB26

      By LegendGTR · Posted

      I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • PranK
      Stock Airbox and Snorkle for RWC - VIC west

      By PranK · Posted

      Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • PranK
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By PranK · Posted

      This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...