Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmmmmmm, what ECU are you using? Personally I would be looking at advancing the ignition timing some, as that is the first place I go for better response. Maybe some tuning of the exhaust camshaft timing woiuld help as well.

Premature wastegate opening would be my next port of call. Try setting the boost threshold at 2 bar, and testing the boost build then. That will tell you if the boost bypass isn't large enough through the EBC. If that turns out to be the case I would try a Norgren pressure limiting valve before the EBC. Or upgrade to a Jaycar IEBC, they ensure absolutely no premature wastegate opening because the solenoid is in series to the wastegate actuator. The HKS EBC (like most others) has its solenoid parrallel to the wastegate actuator.

Hope that is of some help

Cheers, yeah I currently have the HKS EVC3 fitted that came with the car, I will be fitting my AVC-R (on the shelf form last car) in a month or two, the AVC-R will definitely be in series with the actuators. In terms of the other items, the cams are coming out in favour of Tomei Hi Lift PROCAM's 260deg 10.85mm so I am hoping that the extra lift will enable a lot better torque and flow in the lower RPM's.

ECU is a Power FC, my tuner did mention that they are boosting a little late, even for 2530's.. Cheers for the ideas..

I looked at the piping kits as well, but i don't need the full kit, as i have M's pods and Greddy hard piping kit.

DANOOH Any chance of some photos of the hard piping kit in your installation, my fear at the moment with the HKS pipes is that I won't be able to easily fit my Z32 AFM's to them (which I know I can with the GReddy setup) and that my filters won't fit.. Some pics of different installations helps me to visualise better.. Cheers if you could. Also what AFM's are you running??

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hmmmmmm, what ECU are you using? Personally I would be looking at advancing the ignition timing some, as that is the first place I go for better response. Maybe some tuning of the exhaust camshaft timing woiuld help as well.

Premature wastegate opening would be my next port of call. Try setting the boost threshold at 2 bar, and testing the boost build then. That will tell you if the boost bypass isn't large enough through the EBC. If that turns out to be the case I would try a Norgren pressure limiting valve before the EBC. Or upgrade to a Jaycar IEBC, they ensure absolutely no premature wastegate opening because the solenoid is in series to the wastegate actuator. The HKS EBC (like most others) has its solenoid parrallel to the wastegate actuator.

Hope that is of some help

Cheers, yeah I currently have the HKS EVC3 fitted that came with the car, I will be fitting my AVC-R (on the shelf form last car) in a month or two, the AVC-R will definitely be in series with the actuators. In terms of the other items, the cams are coming out in favour of Tomei Hi Lift PROCAM's 260deg 10.85mm so I am hoping that the extra lift will enable a lot better torque and flow in the lower RPM's.

ECU is a Power FC, my tuner did mention that they are boosting a little late, even for 2530's.. Cheers for the ideas..

I looked at the piping kits as well, but i don't need the full kit, as i have M's pods and Greddy hard piping kit.

DANOOH:- Any chance of some photos of the hard piping kit in your installation, my fear at the moment with the HKS pipes is that I won't be able to easily fit my Z32 AFM's to them (which I know I can with the GReddy setup) and that my filters won't fit.. Some pics of different installations helps me to visualise better.. Cheers if you could. Also what AFM's are you running??

Hey mate

I hae got soem pics ( I think!) but I only have them on e-mail. I can send them if you have an email addy :rofl:

DANOOH Any chance of some photos of the hard piping kit in your installation, my fear at the moment with the HKS pipes is that I won't be able to easily fit my Z32 AFM's to them (which I know I can with the GReddy setup) and that my filters won't fit.. Some pics of different installations helps me to visualise better.. Cheers if you could. Also what AFM's are you running??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...