Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So far i just know that the R32 RB25de and R33 RB25de came with the 5 speed auto. I'm not sure if all of them did.

My HCR32 has a 5 speed auto.

It has 3 gear selections on the shifter and then 2 other gears on overdrive.

The overdrive sucks because when I'm driving Miss Daisy in the back and select OD after 80kmh, both 4th & 5th gear shift within a couple of seconds and the next thing I know I'm doing 80kmh with the engine turning at 1500rpm - needless to say it's pretty bloody gutless down there in that rev range. But when I'm on her she'll swap into 4th at 150kmh and 5th at 190kmh.

My only real bugbear is the inability to select 4th and 5th at will, which is why I'm in the middle of procuring everything for my manual conversion, no more auto for me.

I saw a five speed in a non turbo rb20de R33.... 4 door.....

I thought it was very strange as the dash in the 33 has the gear selection lights it had 1-4 then drive... a normal auto r33 had 1-3 then drive...

I dont know where youd get that info other than nissan japan... I have only ever seen one myself and i was confussed... I spoke to the guys in our auto devision and they had never seen one nor did they have any tech info on this box....

Yeah putting a manual box in a standard auot is a good thing...

I did it in my old GTSX.... The diff ration is taller and makes for a faster acc but lower top speed... But top speed is not important at QLD raceway nor on the strip as you will never reach red line top gear..... So yes this is a great idea....

Nissan had the 5-speed auto transmission designated RE5R01A, it's sister to the 4-speed, the RE4R01A and was used in both the Skyline series and the 1999 Q45 4.1 V8 Infinity, although there are other vehicles, I can't remember exactly which ones.

The manual coversion is going to be a wait and see as the gearbox I have coming is a Nismo close ratio, so the diff ratio may be a bit extreme for the box, should be fun for a while though!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...