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R33 GTSt Auto.

Mods 3" turbo back, with 3" hi-Flow Cat

K&N air Fliter.

Turbo Smart 2 stage boost controller.

What seemed like a quick Dyne run started with the fact I had the wrong plugs 5's with should have been 6's.

So they were replaced.

Next the Oxygen sensor was stuffed, which I think was due to adding Octane Additive.

All that was sorted out and a after a 10psi run I reached.

172 Hp to the Wheels.

Does this sound, fair enough?

Also what does this convert to in KW's.

My best run when it was in stock form was 15.35 on the 1/4 when she was stock.

Do you think this enough to get in into the 14-15 second time.

Also whats the HP to Kw conversion:eek:

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yes, it all comes down to how the dyno is calibrated...there should be a universal calibration standard for these things

dynos wernt made for "out right" power figuers

i once got dynoed at 96rwkw :confused:

then another place at 400rwkw, so u see what i mean when these things arnt calibrated properly

and if the guy is saying "add 5% for a true figuer" just tells me that it aint calibrated properly

dynos were made for tuning

I had the dyno at Brisbane Tuning & Turbo, Wooloongabba.

There a honest bunch there and they said they reckon there dyno is out and reads about 5-10% under true HP/kW.

And I noticed that on the first few runs they had someone sit in the boot. But on the final one no one sat in the boot.

In the end the car feels lot smoother and quicker than when was stock.

Guest Nismo_Freak

250hp ---> 178rwhp... thats a 29% loss in the drivetrain if the car was stock!!!! An AWD Subaru only losses around 26%! There is no reason a RWD car should be lossing that much power unless power is reported too high (Ford always does this), or you have some issues with your clutch or differential. Or a bad dyno... or your car has some issues w/ compression and timing.

Nismo_Freak:

I've noticed that a lot of Americans quote incredibly high power figures at the wheels. I think it's just the dynos our two countries use. Our dynos (Dyno Dynamics?) generally show 70-75% of the fly wheel figures, whereas yours are a hell of a lot higher. I was checking out the Supraforums and they all quote unbelievable figures if they were on our local dynos.

Cheers,

Michael

190rwhp with stock boost, FGK cat back exhaust. Car in a decent state of tune. This was on a dyno day with plenty of other skylines, of standardish and modified types.

Some with more boost than me (10psi) and various other mods got the same rwhp as mine on the day,or slightly less.

You have an automatic, so you lose a few extra HP there before you get to the tyres.

Originally posted by MRE

So is that any good?  

128kW at the Wheels.

The fellow said that there figures are down and to add about 5%, for true figures.

MRE, I have an auto as well and it made 138kw (190hp) at the rear wheels in totally stock air box, stock exhaust, stock boost. I had it up to 9psi now but didn't made any more power at top end, although I noted slightly increased in mid range. This is coz stock exhaust is very limiting, and I'm still waiting for my 3" exhaust delivery...

Yeah figures are always not the best.

I think you need to run on 3 diferent Dyno's to get a real idea.

Just got home from Willowbank test and tune and my best run was.

60ft 2.3

330ft 6.2

660ft 9.4

100ft 12.1

1/4 mile 14.3 @ 161.5 K.P.H

My best before the mods was a 15.3.

I'm happy

Guest Nismo_Freak

That Supra forums crap was a bunch of arguing and no point made. US #s are crap? I believe the real test lies in the 1/4 mile times to back up power figures. Ex.

SW Supra

T72 Powered Supra + Nitrous

804whp on dyno

9.81@153mph

Then a guy from the UK

650bhp

11s@130+mph

Sounds about right to me? Either way I know for a fact the aussie ---> american doesnt add up 100%. There was a blue r33 gtr on a dyno that layed down 600whp (when kw ---> hp) however on an american made dyno it layed down 852whp. Sounds like I should just add 30% roughly to the aussie figures. Which now makes sense to me ... 221whp US = 170whp Aussie

I know why:

US use DynoJet: Which is about 15% driveline loss RWD (Avg?)

We use DynoDynamics: Which is about 30% loss RWD (roughly)

So DynoJet is more accurate (arguably) and closer to flywheel HP hence higher figure :P

MRE: That dyno figure sounds a bit low, but you run the number, which is all that counts. You could get that 60 foot down a litte, and the MPH is good, so that is all that counts.

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