Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Im contemplating throwing nos into my car cause i can get a real good deal on any HP shot (full system) OZ NOS setup?

MY rb25det, is pretty stock @ the moment (internals) other than 3" turbo back, fmic, ems, 550cc injectors, fuek pump etc...

What HP do you guys recommend, & if so, what should i have done to the motor to not fry itself...???

& I wont be using it much @ all, only on the track once or 3 times etc...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62812-nos-system-wetdry-for-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Single fogger wet system, running a 50 shot I think or a 75 hahaha one or the other, be careful though the oz nos system looks like good value but when a NOS brand single fogger wet system is only $850 now with a 10lb bottle its hard to go past as the oz nos comes with no bottle

Brett

Single fogger wet system, running a 50 shot I think or a 75 hahaha one or the other, be careful though the oz nos system looks like good value but when a NOS brand single fogger wet system is only $850 now with a 10lb bottle its hard to go past as the oz nos comes with no bottle

Brett

say i buy the real "NOS holley" setup , with everything....is it still cool to hook it up & use it only once every while? like @ drags etc.,.

& being in nsw, can i cruise around & not get done by cops as long as i dont have the bottle in the car yea?

Mate its the single fogger wet system you need as the holley set up is for a carby, yep as long as the bottle isn't in the car you'll be fine and yep its fine to use every now and then you might just need a after market ecu to be able to take a couple of degrees of timing out if you plan on running anything bigger then a 50 shot

All testing should be done on a dyno though to check if it needs it or not

Mate its the single fogger wet system you need as the holley set up is for a carby,

Holly make systems for Fuel injected cars as well as carby systems.

you might just need a after market ecu to be able to take a couple of degrees of timing out if you plan on running anything bigger then a 50 shot

You shouldnt need an aftermarket ECU, just set the mix correctly.

Correct me if im wrong, But if your running 550cc injectors should your car have an aftermarket ecu? It would be over fuelling to the shithouse as the the stock ecu is already programmed to run rich mixtures?

Is it really that safe running NOS without Aftermarket PIstons?

Is it safe to increase boost without aftermarket pistons ?

There comes a point for any engine where enough is enough. The rb25det seems to be OK up to 250rwkw, so an extra 75hp of NOS at this point might be pushing it too far, but if you are only putting out 150-200rwkw, then a shot of NOS is probably your cheapest way to get that much power.

if you can use a diffrent brand it would be ok.

i had a faulty nos solanoid with my very first nos setup . it was a OZNOS type wetkit and the nos solonoid didnt shut so even though i had the switch of it was still throwing nos into the motor :( lucky i had a passanger that could reach the bottle and turn it off.

since then i have had two NOS BRAND kits and never once had a problem.

good luck with what ever you end up doing.

Hey guys - dirty-cheaterer-pusseh here :(

I run a 75hp NOS brand wet nitrous system using a single fogger plumbed between the factory BOV location and the throttle body.

It works great. Boostn247, dude, just come to myhouse and have a look. Bring your notepad and a pen ;) Gimme a buzz - 0416271834

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...