Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im sure you will find one if you shop around. It always pays to search and not to rush into a purchase. Wether it be a single part or a whole car.

Hell, post a "wanted to buy" add in the classies on this website, worked a treat when i was looking for bits n pieces for my car. There are alot of ppl with access to parts etc on these forums.

Thanks geordie, how much extra is a manual half cut?

I read that whole RB30 thread ages ago, and I know about the oil galleries. But I recal something comming up about the VVT not being better... something about the the VVT only making up for lost power from smaller cams nissan used for emmisions....   Can anyone clarify this?  Sounds like VVT head with non VVT cams would be the go.    

Don, I just looked at you pics.  That is one sweet sleeper.   What is the economy like on the beast?    Do you think an LSD and some cams would bring you a 13?

yep the red wagons a sleeper , totally stock looking , standard hieght and wheels . at moment have put roll cage in for going to speed trials in 3 weeks . fuel economy is ok , almost run out of fuel the other day it took 55 ltrs for 490kms travelled .

maybe 4.11 gears with a locked diff , cams and the head ported should see high 13s for the 1/4 . i have got a spare head to play with , will get it done one day .

Sounds about the same econ as a standard RB30E. I don't think you would need to port head for a 13.9, I'm sure the standard cams are tiny and some big ones would make a huge power gain. They would probably cost a mint though. Are you from/or visit redcliffe sometimes? I have seen a wagon that looks very similar to yours around there a few times.

Sounds about the same econ as a standard RB30E.   I don't think you would need to port head for a 13.9, I'm sure the standard cams are tiny and some big ones would make a huge power gain.   They would probably cost a mint though.   Are you from/or visit redcliffe sometimes?   I have seen a wagon that looks very similar to yours around there a few times.

cams cost around $900 -$1000 . no not from redcliffe have been there a few times . i use the wagon as my work vehicle so i get all over brisbane . am taking it to lake gairdner speed trials in south australia in just over 2 weeks

But I recal something comming up about the VVT not being better... something about the the VVT only making up for lost power from smaller cams nissan used for emmisions.... Can anyone clarify this? Sounds like VVT head with non VVT cams would be the go.

Its a load of crap buddy.

The RB25DET VCT cam specs are the same as the R33 RB25DE and RB20DET but with different center lines.

The VCT adjusts the inlets centerline so there is less overlap in the low/mid range but larger overlap in the top end.

If you were to have the larger overlap at idle the car motor would idle like crap almost as if it were running a large cam.

I have an RB30DE in my R33 S1 now for 18 months. Theres a picture on this thread (page 1) by Skyla dated 30/01/05 of my conversion. I Have a RB25 S1 head, with RB20DET inlet cam. This is so adjustable cam wheel can be fitted when I have time. The throttle body is a self made 80mm leading to a trust filter behind the bumper above the splash panel. RB20DET injectors fitted (top mount) are feed by an adjustable fuel pressure regulator set to 37 psi. Exhaust is via coby extractors to 3" exhaust with 2 mufflers.

So far only problem was using a bolt for the second idle pulley. This broke as I was pulling into my car park at work causing cam belt to slip over cam wheels. There was no damage by piston / valve contact. It now has a stud fitted similar to the original one.

My complete conversion so far is about $3000 with manifold being the greatest expense. I have 137 rwkw at the moment and the car is my daily driver.

For all you N/A fans, You don't need a turbo to have fun. My personal number plate is SLOG (slight lack of grip).

HAVE FUN

  • 2 weeks later...

Suiram nice work on the engine mate. Can i ask what plenum you have on it? At first i thought it was a GTR plenum but now it could be a Greddy one. Also were the extractors custom made by Cobe? Cause they sure look better then the coby ones ive seen. Nice work again. Hows the response and power delivery?

Thanks, Inlet is a trust plenum and extractors are HPC high temperature coated coby. The car pulls like a tractor, 1000rpm to 7500rpm. Dyno sheet has 2 straight lines, torque horizontal and power upwards till cutout. Its nice to drive and fuel economy is good too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...