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Hey all,

Got my car dyno tuned today and pushed 146kw at the wheels, nothing spectacular.

My car is an R33 s1 auto.

MODS:

3" HKS exhaust

K&N Air Pod.

Everything else is stock standard.

Seems as tho that the car is running fairly rich, Air/fuel ratio levels are pretty low, peaking at about 10.8. Would this be a result of my air induction system, or lack thereof? or simply the standard ECU? and would the Wolf 3D fix this and give me more power as a result of better AFR?

Future plans.

Wolf 3D ECU

Front Mount Intercooler

Blitz ID3 boost controller

What ya all think?

BOOMAU.

P.S thanks to Mercury Motorsport for fitting me in on such short notice.

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BOOMAU , 146 is a goo start :)

My 33 auto made 210rwkw (280rwhp) with full exhaust , fmic , SAFC @ 13.3psi

( ran 13.4 sec @ 106mph 1/4's)

then 240rwkw (320rwhp) with Wolf & hiflow turb,

then 270rwkw (360rwhp) with VP 103 & more timing,

& finally 304rwkw (406rwhp) with a small shot of NOS!

(ran 12.6 sec @ 114mph)

Important note! I totalled 2 engines & 1 gearbox to get these results :Bang:

the stock engine broke the ring lands above 210kw & the gearbox died above 240kw. :Oops:

Out of this I can give you 3 tips : Stock eng / box are great fun at 210rwkw

Wolf 3D v4 is the ONLY ecu that will run nissan autos

& fit a big Auto trans cooler :flamed:

I hope this helps :D

"Go The Auto! "

Cheers

Troy rep.

Great result Troy... Something to be hell proud of... I don't think mine will EVER make that much power or do those times...

Wolf 3D v4 is the ONLY ecu that will run nissan autos

But I don't agree with that statement... All the Wolf 3D's I've installed or played with on auto 33's have not controlled the auto at all... Sure it still shifts, but it makes a damn mess of the shift, and the car is not that nice to drive... I even bridged a "few" wires across to the auto ECU and while this made things slightly better, it wasn't perfect...

I think a PowerFC would do much the same thing... Allow the car to drive and be tuned, but make a mess of the shift logic... Just a theory at this stage though...

Strutto ,

Point taken , I believe the wolf is the only ecu that keeps all of the nissan outputs , which allows you to run the auto , rather than control it.

You could retain the stock ecu & splice in something like an EMS stinger to conrtol fuel & ing

I put a 3300rpm hi stall in my box , so shift quality was altered anyway :D

Strutto ,

Point taken , I believe the wolf is the only ecu that keeps all of the nissan outputs , which allows you to run the auto , rather than control it.

You could retain the stock ecu & splice in something like an EMS stinger to conrtol fuel & ing

I put a 3300rpm hi stall in my box , so shift quality was altered anyway :D

Ahh OK... Good point - you may well be correct... I'm just running a SAFC2 and SITC combo... Does the trick for me at this stage...

Off topic I know and apologies BOOMAU, but how did you find the launch with the high stall Troy? Did it result in lots of wheelspin? Care to post your 60ft times?

sorry , BOOMAU , no hijack intended :D

Strutto , the stall was too high at 3300 (wouldnt lockup in O/D at 110kmph!.... you had too rev past it & then , once engaged , drop back)

My 60ft times did not improve from 2.2 (13.4 run ) & still 2.2 (12.6 run) , I was getting alot of spin as it squats on the inside edges of the rear wheels :burnout:

My best run was on my street tyres (275/40/17) with no burnout , I will have to work on the 60ft times with my new combo.

good result BOOMAU for a pretty stock car still.

go the front mount and boost controller for sure, but there are many discussions on here as sydney kid said, and, they illustrate why an aftermarket ecu will not run the auto properly.

maybe think about a safc instead, with this and all the mods you should still get good power.

LOL (directed at Col-GTSX)

hehe that is ok guys, don't mind cause it is all information that will help everyone.

Might think twice about the wolf 3D then, just stick to the boost controller and the front mount, and then look at safc then.

Thanks for the help all.

BOOMAU

Without an aftermarket ECU or AFC, what would a R33 S2 auto dyno with

- FMIC

- Full exhuast

- Pod

- No change in boost levels

Would it be unwise to run the above components without an aftermarket ECU or AFC? If so, why? Will there be more power gained from a S2 engine compared to an S1?

with a full exhuast boost would rise a bit

but why keep stock boost with those mods, get an ebc or bleed valve, whichever you prefer, and boost it to 10psi and have a stock boost setting as well and bob's your uncle.

should probably get around 175rwkw and series II motors usually get a couple more kw most of the time i have seen even though it is the same motor.

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