Jump to content
SAU Community

HELP ****ed Radiator

MFC05

By MFC05,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Similiar to what happened to my sisters VL after the flush.

Only difference was before the flush it wasn't overheating, after it was. :cheers:

I pulled the radiator out and when reverse flushing with compressed air and water I had what felt like bark chip covering my hand. It was massive bits of scale that had blocked the core. :(

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

That may be the case. It might not be the head but how pissed would you be if you spent all that money doing all this other 5hit and then find out it was coz a fake mechanic couldn't do a simple test.

How does he know it's not. Has he got Xray vision or something. A dye test will pick up the smallest leak that won't even cause your car to overheat.

Well anyway, I'm done with the advise. If you choose to ignore it, that's your choice. Like I said before, it may not be the head. I hope it isn't. I hope it's something simple to fix because I have gone through all of it hundreds of times. I just believe that it is best to cover all bases so that you rule out all possibilities. To say that it is not a particular problem without performing the tests to prove it is just foolish. I really hope they do the right thing by you.

MFC05 Experienced

MFC05

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well i like to say 3LIT3 FORS3 WAS right.... and i should of done he sed...!!

it was a blown head in my engine !!! ****en bullshit !!!!!!!!!

so now i got a quote from ADD racing to get it done for 1200

wat do u guys reckon of that price??? any places in brisbane that will do it cheaper ???

and what does it inovole wen changing a new head ?????? pullin the engine out ???

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

You would get change from $800 if you did it yourself. Plus without knowing the condition of the head it is impossible to give an accurate quote as if the head is bent it will cost $600 to get a full head service and straightened. Now I'm sure even if you got the $450 VRS set for free, you would still not get away with $800.

Worst case scenario is:

Full head service $600

VRS $450 (assuming you can buy the VRS seperate from the full kit which is $600)

Labour - 9 hrs - $500

Oil and filter change - $50

Coolant - $30

Timing Belt - $80

Plus you have to account for broken exhaust studs, hylomar spray and any vacuum lines or hose clamps that may break while doing the job.

Total worst case scenario is: $1730 approx

If you can get a second hand head that is already straight or the head you have is still straight, the price would then drop to $1250 plus the cost of the second hand head if so required.

If you do it yourself you would save the $500 labour so then it would drop to $750 for a straight head and $1230 for a bent one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...