Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, got a few things to say.

First and most importantly, minutes ago I sold my ford, this means I GET MY 1996 R33 SKYLINE YAYAYYA!! The ford was the amount I owed on the R33. So I will soon be the proud owner of my dream car, something I thought would never happen.

Funny thing is, the whole existence of this forum was a big part of what started this infatuation with skylines. I mean I always loved them, but just the vibe in SDU, reading about all the mods and the entire 852 post Free Horsepower thread.. I was hooked, I had to have one! Whenever an obstacle came up, the forums would be there to solve the problem and keep me on track to driving and owning my skyline.

These forums also facilitated the "right" purchase of my skyline. After reading all the past “good importer” threads and taking into consideration all your opinions and comments on them I went and visited Dean at UP Imports. After only a minute of chatting you could tell he was as enthusiastic as you about skylines. I would just like to thank Dean Windram and Chris from Ultimate Performance Imports who I purchased the car from. They have been fantastic and I can highly recommend them to anyone wanting to import a jap car at the right price. They are upfront and honest in the way they run their business, they both own skylines, and are always there to answer your questions however stupid they maybe.

My friend Steven who I am sure will grace you with his presence in due time has also purchased a car from Dean which is currently on the docs in Melbourne. Our cars should be ready on almost the same day and what a memorable day that will be! We have also started a small website http://r33skyline.com (check it out) which I am sure will be filled with information when we actually GET our cars J

In regard to this whole SDU SAU thing, for a newbi such as myself, the search engine on SDU became my information resource. I have spent hours reading the forums and they are an extremely valuable resource to any skyline owner/future owner with the wealth of knowledge on them. I think the idea of the two clubs being brothers/sisters is a great idea, both sites can link to each other and be strongly affiliated. Perhaps we can even share the same forum? Have a members section where only members can post, and just have moderators for the rest.

After I test drove the R33, my dad, Steve and myself couldn’t remove the smiles from our faces for 3 days! Can’t wait till next week! Hurry up Dean!!

Thanks Denton

Cool,,,another brother....... Hope to see some pics,,,,You and Steve should come on some cruises. Nothing like the looks on faces as we cruise through there towns. I remember on Shell's Canberra cruise, we went through some town where some Bikies were drinking at and there jaws were on the road,,,I couldn't help myself,,,I had to drop a 2nd gear spin,,,,that just got them yelling and mass aplause.

Congratulations Denton!! ;)

bet u can't wait till it's in your garage :)

It's good to hear you got a lot of info on SDU. We've all learnt a lot from that forum (well i have anyway) and hopefully SAU will build into a good database of info too. As long as SDU stays free, we can refer to both :D

"Sister" clubs might be on option down the track. Would be good!

and yeah...is it red?? :P

Haha, red devils :P

Denton's is a

1996 R33 Spec 2

GTR front,

GUNMETAL ;)

HKS Exhaust

HKS Air Pod

18" 5 Spoke, 3 piece, Deep Dish

(Yet to be fitted)

Wheels are sitting at my house in their boxes hehe, ppl are like

you bought wheels for a car you dont even have yet :D

Steve's car is a

1995 R33

WHITE :)

Jap kit,

Poof Spoiler "as Dean put it"

17" rims

Sunroof

LOWERED and i mean LOWERED

oh and a big fu*k off Tacho

Check out the pics at

r33skyline.com goto Gallery for mine and Steve for his :)

Enjoy :)

Denton...

Looks nice mate... Only that it has a Series 2 interior, but has a Series 1 front. Looks like the radiator support has been replaced too...

Previous owner probably rear-ended someone and decided to put a Series 1 front on there...

Will look awesome with your new wheels on there!!! :P You'll have to cruise upto Sydney and show us all ;)

Merli. :uh-huh:

Hey Merli!

Yes, interesting.. I noticed that to. Originally I wanted a 95 model with a GTR front. Then this one came up. It has had a minor front accident and apparently, the spec 2 headlights and bonnet where hard to come by/expensive. So they (not sure who exactly) replaced them with spec 1 headlights, bonnet, and a GTR front bar.

Still, in the flesh it looks a lot better, and with 16,000k on the clock I can't really complain. Car is in immac condition, sounds and goes great! Perhaps later on I can source some spec 2 headlights/bonnet.

Nah mate...

If you want that GTR look, stick with the Series 1 headlights, because all GTRs came with those shape headlights... No R33 GTRs were released with the Series 2 headlights!!! :P

Yeah, looks like a very clean car... Spotless interior too!!!

Well done, and welcome to the world of skylines and endless boost ;)

Merli. :uh-huh:

Definitely suspension :P

I reckon R33s handle like boats with stock suspension ;) I got a full whiteline kit put on mine for about $3000, and it was the best modification I have done to the car!!!!

It makes it so much more fun to drive, and makes it MUCH faster around tight racetracks like Wakefield Park...

After that's sorted, then go for your power mods :D

Electronic Boost Controller

ECU (PowerFC?)

Front mount intercooler

Fuel System

BIG TURBO!!!!! :)

Yay :)

Merli. :uh-huh:

Ok that sounds wayyyy too much power :P I dont wanna go overboard, and there is this thing called insurance, and these other guys called police who would have a field day with all that.

I was thinking, dump pipe (maybe front/high flow cat), GTR intercooler, CAI with air feed, S-AFC, Boost Controller (not sure which). But all in due time, i'm pretty sure after driving a 4lt Auto ford for the last 4 years, this is gonna keep me happy for a while as is.

Ahhhh...

I assumed that you already had a full exhaust! If not, definitely get a dump pipe, front pipe and 3" cat... You'll get a nice power gain out of these...

When I just put the 3.5" C-West cat-back system on mine, I got no power gain... It's only when I did the front part of the exhaust that I got a nice power gain!!

Get a PowerFC, not an S-AFC... Not *that* much more, and it's a full programmable ECU, not just an Air/Fuel Controller

For boost control, I use an APEXi AVC-R and I swear by it :P

Merli. :uh-huh:

alot of ppl have been saying the blitz boost controller is awesome.. there was a really good comparison someone did a couple months back where they ran each boost controller and the blitz come up tops on the dyno test followed by th avcr..

one thing id like to have is dual boost levels at the press of a button.. im not sure if the avcr has that?? i was told u gotta go through a menu to select different boost levels.. which is a bit of a bitch if u ask me...

mods should be done depending on what ure gonna do with the car.. if track work is ure thing.. then suspension and tyres are enough..

and ud be surprised how quickly u get used to the power.. i wish i had a dollar for all the times ppl told me.. that should do me, i wont need anymore power than that ;)

denton.. always check with insurance before undertaking any mods.. im lucky just cars lets me do whatever i want to the car as long as i tell em..

and as for defects.. its just luck i suppose.. keep all ure original parts and if u ever do get defected put em back on .. then get cleared.. then put the parts back on.. thats what most ppl i know do..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...