Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got two *z32* afms... however .. I assume need bth to be matched for my RB26DETT GTR Maybe its not so much an issue with GTS applications?

both 80mm howver the stickers are different.. the printed numbers.. 22680 30P00 A36-000 N62 is the same on both nut the printed / stamped black text is different.. one is 4X11C & the other 4819D

So the printed sticker part numbers are the same but one sticker is red the other is yellow... with different stamped numbers....

Will they be ok?

Will they require different PFC settings?!?

Help! :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63675-z32-afms-different-part-numbers/
Share on other sites

I recently bought a Bosch Z32 AFM that looks exactly the same to a Nissan Z32, right down to the orange sticker. The AFM I bought was listed as a part replacement for the Z32.

I've done a little search and came up with very little. :D

http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...goto=nextoldest

It doesn't look pink by any chance does it?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...815#post1025815

Thanks for looking, well they have the *same* actual part number on them, it is simply the 'stamped' black text that is different as is the colour of the sticker itself... hmmm :spcow: ....

So we have two AFM's, both 80mm, both the same part number but the differences are...

22680 30P00 A36-000 N62 with stamped black text under it with 4819D

(Yellow/Gold) sticker

&

22680 30P00 A36-000 N62 with stamped black text under it with 4X11C (Red/Orange) sticker

both have 4 pins with letter above them from A - F with only B-E having pins, the others look plastic sealed from factory so I don't think they've been modifed.

Will they work?

Will they read the same on a PFC?

You guys with twin turbos run Z32 AFMs with the same colour of sticker?!?

:hellpisd:

Green is the R32/R33 RB20/25.

Pink or what could look like red is the series 2 R33 RB25 from what I have gathered from searches. Can any one confirm?

I'm unsure what the VL or R31 RB30E AFM's sticker looks like.

The plug on the VL & R31 is the same as the Z32 so it could 'look' like a Z32.

Unsure. :D

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
I recently bought a Bosch Z32 AFM that looks exactly the same to a Nissan Z32, right down to the orange sticker. The AFM I bought was listed as a part replacement for the Z32.

Hey, how much was the bosch part if you dont mind saying? any cheaper than nissan?

I managed to track one down through a friend of a friend for $280 bran spankin new. :)

He has some affiliation with Bosch, I would have expected him to make a few $$ on top of what he bought it so it just goes to show the markup on the item from the middle men.

Its on the car now and working purrfectly.

I managed to track one down through a friend of a friend for $280 bran spankin new. :D

He has some affiliation with Bosch, I would have expected him to make a few $$ on top of what he bought it so it just goes to show the markup on the item from the middle men.

 

Its on the car now and working purrfectly.

damn that is a good price...

i think my AFM is reading high it maxxes out on 10psi (i have other mods though..) which in turn makes my car run really rich ie nearly 100% injector duty cycle but it might be because it is sucking in hot air at the moment.

either way i am considering buying a new afm.

do you know for sure if u have to retune power fc when changing from rb25 afm to Z32, or can u just select it on the menu and it will adjust for you?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...