Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looks like most people prefer the T3/T4 setup, and the advice from most people recommanded it that 220kw will able to reach.

However T04E might lag, but it will be fun to drive around town at low boost, and when you want it, nail it and the power come..may be I'm wrong..

will open for suggestion..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6383-t04e-ar-ratio/#findComment-96502
Share on other sites

I myself would prefer a t3/t4 setup but when u weigh the value of a t3/t4 from cgc $2000 & at the same time a HKS GT2530 brand new would cost just the same so ppl look at other alt.

You can sometime see on for sale for $1000+

The reason why its so popular, its just so simple, take it out for them 2 trim all the bits they need, add larger compressor wheels etc & pop it stright back in.

Dont think of lag as drivable but think of your power band. Mainly Fast street cars aim towards Mid-Range torque over Top end.

eg.

You have till 7000RPM till REDLINE & if a turbo start spooling at 5000rpm, you have 2000rpm left for power then change of gear. How fast do you think it will reach to 5000rpm on lag?....quite long i imagine.

You have 5000cc more then i do (i own a r32) hence you would have less lag time compaired to a RB20

All depends on what you aiming for 180rwkw....you dont even need 2 think of a turbo since the r33 turbo can do 180rwkw before running out of puff

Joe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6383-t04e-ar-ratio/#findComment-96522
Share on other sites

Don't laugh at me guys, initially I was planning a three stage upgrade towards to 300rwkw..I mean it..

stage one: upgrade the exhaust system, FMIC (P-FC already in place)

Stage two: upgrade the stock turbo with T04E, HKS ex manifold, wastegate, dump pipe run at 14 psi (if fuel lean out, the stage three comes in)

Stage three: upgrade stock injectors with 550cc item, fuel pump, forgie pistons, gasket..

The most concern for me is bring the lag down to minimun, and I will see if a switchable "side exhaust" helps..

I don't know how relistic can go, but open for suggestion..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6383-t04e-ar-ratio/#findComment-96603
Share on other sites

It is possible to change the exhaust housing on the turbo & getting a smaller one for less lag.

300rwkw....that would be great, just make sure you take it one step at a time & also include injectors & fuel pump on stage two of your work, this will keep your engine from leaning out & destroying the engine.

but just 2 let u know, you might need alot more work then that to reach 300rwkw.

esp. internal work to the engine to cope with it, you got to remember nissan never designed the rb20/25 to make 300kw but its do-able.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6383-t04e-ar-ratio/#findComment-96658
Share on other sites

Hey that housing isnt big at all!

a .63 housing is great infact it doesnt even sound like a T4 turbine housing.

Use the .70 comp and .63 ex and i dont think there will be much lag at all........taken those figures..

Should spool up good

Im happy with my t3/4 I get full boost 3000rpm in 2nd gear :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6383-t04e-ar-ratio/#findComment-97213
Share on other sites

Originally posted by adam 32

ive got a t04e on my RB20. lag is pretty bad! full boost by 4-4500rpm but it goes fairly hard when on boost. am currently making 201rwkw @ 14psi

Adam you gobbler you have an exhaust A/R of 1.06 my whole turbo could fit in your ex housing thats why you should bring it down to a .86

Sidewaymambo ex housing is only a baby .63 which is whay i mentioned it could spool not so late as yours

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6383-t04e-ar-ratio/#findComment-97307
Share on other sites

No1 can really tell you when its gonna spool up.

I dont think it would be that big of a problem.

50(compressor)/63(turbine) is one of the smallest t04e ive ever come accross & it would give or take spool on my RB20 ill say around 3500 or 3000 give or take.

60(compressor)/70(turbine), would be just a size down (few mm difference) from the above & you have RB25 so you got more cubic (5000cc) then i do so im giving an est guess of 3500rpm but pretty sure it will be under 4000 rpm but we will find out in the end :)

we can always port the head & get bigger cams 2 bring down alittle bit of lag :D

Hopefully my figures are right if so it would be sweet.

Almost forgot, your HKS manifold has a Split-Pulse Flange so it will help the turbo spool alot quicker also.

Joe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6383-t04e-ar-ratio/#findComment-97324
Share on other sites

Compressor A/R means SHIT regarding lag. the bigger the more power it can produce (i beleive as im still learning how 2 read compression maps on turbos abit better)

What determins lag is the exhaust housing. The bigger the exhaust housing the more lag you gonna have.

as macka stated:

Adam you gobbler you have an exhaust A/R of 1.06 my whole turbo could fit in your ex housing thats why you should bring it down to a .86

sidewaymambo: yours is .70 which should be good for your application.

anything around or above .90 should be fitted on a rotor, is what i beleive.

Joe.

Correct me if im wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6383-t04e-ar-ratio/#findComment-97360
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...