Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've finally sorted out a new turbo for my car so pulled off the stock turbo off my R33 Spec2 which crapped out at the drags a couple of months back - and pulled it apart to find out what the damage was. Turns out that there is a bit missing from the nylon compressor wheel!!!

This isn't something I've heard of, and I'm not too sure what could have caused it - I always run it with a filter. Anyone seen this before? Should I be concerned about where the nylon went? (The ballbearing core is stuffed too...)

I have same Turbo and My Turbo had the same things happen as yours ,, piece missing on the Plastic Compressor wheel .. ALso Turbine SHAFT where the BAll BEARINGS run on had excessive wear on about 180deg of ball bearing running contact face on both bearings BUT the other 180deg of the bearing contact was normal this would make the turbine shaft to run off center when it rotated ,due to the Egg shaped wear on the shaft

.. Just before the Ceramic Wheel let go ,, there was excessive oil smoke from the exhaust .. also it idled higher i guess it was from the pieces of the compressor wheel jamming throttle body ,, when i started to boost it was noisey from the Turbo and then no boost..the CERAMIC wheel said BYE BYE .. Just before this all happen i have driven the car HARD the previous time i used it .. And i thought what may have caused it was that the oil was to thin and broke down under the high temps causing the bearings to wear .. and put it out of balance which caused the compressor wheel to brake .. which made the balance worse causing the seal to leak .. then the ceramic wheel lets go ..

if any one has other ideas on what happened let me know .. as i havent got a reason for the Oval shaped bearing wear on the turbine shaft .. which i recon is the start of the problem .... DID YOUR Ceramic Wheel let go ? Cheers Cam

Some of that sounds similar - I get a click when rotating the wheels, but the ceramic exhaust wheel is perfectly in tact. I shut the car off as soon as I heard dodgey noises from the bearings, and the only time it has moved again was to drive it on the trailer to tow home. When it was idling on the trailer it sounded perfectly normal.... I'm kind of worried about where the nylon may have got though.

Has your engine sustained any damage?

i Dont believe its any thing to do with the air filter ..because of where the compressor wheel brakes .. most of the chunky bits would end up in the intercooler inlet side while the finner bits would filter though that .. so the internal damage of the engine would be minimal ,, Due to being Nylon .. BUT if you dont clean out you intercooler you might have problems ..

Now that I think about it, I think I know what happened to the broken piece of compressor - we were sure we heard something drop out when we removed the piping which comes off the compressor and heads towards the intercooler, but couldn't work out what it would be. There is probably a piece of compressor wheel lying on the floor in my garage somewhere :rofl:

It was only later when we pulled the turbo apart that we realised what had happened inside.

Also, just out of interest - the turbo otherwise appears perfectly healthy. The amount of shaft play is normal for a healthy turbo, and there was NO smoke.

I have same Turbo and My Turbo had the same things happen as yours ,, piece missing on the Plastic Compressor wheel  .. ALso  Turbine  SHAFT where the BAll BEARINGS  run on had excessive wear on about 180deg of ball bearing running contact face  on both bearings BUT the other 180deg of the bearing contact was normal   this would make the turbine shaft to run off center when it rotated ,due to the Egg shaped wear on the shaft  

..     Just before the Ceramic Wheel  let go ,, there was  excessive oil smoke from the exhaust ..  also it idled higher i guess it was from the pieces of the compressor wheel jamming throttle body ,, when i started to boost it was noisey from the Turbo  and then no boost..the CERAMIC  wheel said BYE BYE ..      Just before this all happen i have driven the car HARD the previous  time i used it ..     And i thought what may have caused it was that  the oil was to thin and broke down under the high temps causing the bearings to wear ..   and put it out of balance which caused  the compressor wheel to brake  .. which made the balance worse causing the seal to leak    .. then the ceramic wheel lets go ..

 if any one has other ideas on what happened  let me know ..  as i havent got a reason for the Oval shaped bearing  wear on the turbine shaft .. which i recon is the start of the problem  .... DID YOUR Ceramic Wheel let go ?    Cheers Cam

What boost were you running when ya did this

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...