Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I doubt anybody is going to answer this one, but I'll give it a shot..

My newish HR31 Passage, fine in most other respects, has got some major ass problems.

Basically there is a very loud clunking from LHS rear wheel. The problem appears more pronounced when you get one back wheel off the ground during a 90deg turn (into a driveway, etc), makes a huge "clunk" and goes into spastic mode. I'll drive along after that, and the whole rear of the car will shudder, feels like the wheel is goinng to fall off (maybe it is.. ).

Other times, it seems to sort itself out and go back to normal, but the rear goes into "minor spastic" mode over a bump, and clunks again for a tiny bit.

The HICAS light will flash on during this, and might stay on once it goes spacco for a bit.

Now... my suspects are either hosed diff (needs major shim? causing the axel to pop out nearly?).. although if it is the diff, then it does seem to turn ok for the most part, and LSD when on full boot when everything is working just like normal? I do have another R200 diff sitting around which I'll try eventually.

The other is the HICAS itself is ****ed, going into a spastic and turning the rear wheels when you're trying to go straight.

So is it more likely to be HICAS or diff related, or something else altogether?

oh - and what does the little house looking thingo on the dash mean?? Mine is always on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64310-hr31-weirdness/
Share on other sites

The rear has been replaced with standard munroe shocks..

fronts are shagged, but it's rear end prob.. I do have a set of S13 king springs and shocks to try in the rear.. Sounds more major than just suspension itself, but I might fit them just in case.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64310-hr31-weirdness/#findComment-1205533
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestions..

Today I crawled under there to take a look. Everything appers to be in order, and checked the tension of a few bolts, the rear swaybar, bushes, etc. I think I even worked out out the HICAS on that thing works (two pistons - weird setup).

Took off the suspected wheel, removed the caliper, and took off the hub. Again nothing too obvious there, so put all back together.

Just before I took it for a spin, and the problem was still there. When I stopped though, I felt that wheel, and noticed it was very very hot even after just a quick drive. I think what could be happening is that the handbrake appears to be getting "stuck" on for that wheel

The car has an older setup with the drum type arrangement for the handbrake sitting inside the hub. I did spray a whole heap of lubricant in there, and over the tension springs, etc but that didn't seem to make any difference.

I don't really have too much of an idea how that handbrake setup works with the drum (usually its just a spring to the caliper) - would should I look at? What usually do you replace in there? What type of problems can develop?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64310-hr31-weirdness/#findComment-1206522
Share on other sites

I didn't notice the heat b4 tightening the handbrake.. but unfortunately I didn't check eitehr. It's possible it was deliberate loosened to prevent the probelm.

The wumping and strangely from that wheel was still the same though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64310-hr31-weirdness/#findComment-1208567
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...