Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

The gtr is going in for a 100k service pretty soon, and they said they have to pull the whole front end of the car off....to get at timing belts etc.

Now if this were to happen....would it be easier installing things like HKS Adjustable Cam Gears (cheaper labour?).....instaed of having to do it later on? and are they a worth while add on?

Will I get more driveability as well as power?

anyone?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6447-hks-adjustable-cam-gears/
Share on other sites

As yourself two questions.

What is the current valve timing of your engine.

What is wrong with it, and why will changing it improve anything.

If you have a definite plan, fair enough. But just making something adjustable is not going to create a miracle.

If you are doing it to dress up the engine, fair enough. They are a good loking piece of gear.

I just ask because I've read in a few magazines that they create more off boost power....and make the car more driveable on the street (more torque) and are a good piece of gear...and on some cars making another 20rwkw if they are set up properly

and yes I rekon they look pretty sweet in the engine bay :cool:

Apparrantly you can adjust the timeing for more power up top or more torque lower down and boosting the torque is going to make it more driveable....and quicker. And , yes if the timeing cover is comming off that would be a good time to add it or them

What is the current valve timing of your engine.  

What is wrong with it, and why will changing it improve anything

On any GTR the timing is not optimised for max power or even power or boost to be created early. And when theres been some light modifications like increasing boost etc theres even more potential. It's a proven result that vernier timing gears have given good results if tuned properly. There are dyno sheets to prove these and I'm sure many ppl on this forum have got good results. With twin cam engines you can alter the exhaust cam and the intake seperately. Most GTR's end up advancing the intake and retarding the exhaust.

Of course the potential is only as good as it is tuned.

Heres a dyno sheet of Mario's R34:

http://www.exvitermini.com/pics/r34236d.jpg

Note at the bottom the car made 10kw more @ the wheels even with a powerFC and AVCR and boost came on 800rpm earlier. The only downside I know of is a slightly lumpier idle.

Actually that makes a lot of sense. Especially retarding the exhaust cam. But as I said earlier you need a plan.

You also need to spend money on tuning to get it right. There seems to be the mistaken impression around, that merely fitting adjustable cam gears will automatically make more power.

so do you think it is a worth while thing to do.....or should I just ignore it and do something else? :confused:

Can anyone give me an estimate on how much it would cost for the tune?

They seem to be a pretty cheap add on if more torque is needed.....$360 from Takakaira

if you are planning more mods in the future you could get them fitted and left at the standart timing which shouldnt cost you anything if they are doing the timing belt, then later you can get them dialed in. They are only worth doing if you have different mangement first as there will be more gains here

engine mods are:

apexi n1 zorst..with front pipes and dump pipes (no cat)

k&n pod filters

avc-r - 14 pound boost

...with this it made 220kw at the wheels...but it cut out due to the speed cut.

ermm....and in the future i will be fitting a power fc, and maybe do a turbo upgrade.....depends on money.....but yeah...definately a power fc!!:uh-huh:

Have to agree, stick them in and later when you have your FC and a few other goodies spend the money on a decent dyno tune.

These two magazine articles, do they give before and after valve timing figures, and if so could someone please post them ?

Stock factory 32/33GTR inlet cam opens 7 BTDC, closes 57 ABDC

exhaust cam opens 63 BBDC, closes 7 BTDC (BTDC is correct)

The stock settings have zero valve overlap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...