Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Possibly a silly question.

Considering I have a RB25 head with RB26 265 cams, solid lifters etc and all the manifolds, turbo etc that goes with it. Would it be conceivable to bolt it onto a RB26 bottom end if It could be bought at the right price (low km).

Would my current ECU still work with it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65287-rb25-head-on-rb26-theory/
Share on other sites

i dont think it would be worth the money

rb30 bottom end would be better value to you for the $$$

or sell the gear your got and go complete rb26ett

How about if I said a $1000 RB26 bottom end that had 30000km on it. Considering my RB25 bottom end is starting to breath a little.

do you have a PFC?

Ok just to put things in perspective. The avatar is my motor. Head as described, 2835ProS, highflow exhaust manifold, Greddy plenum, Q45 throttle body, large sparco intercooler and all pipework to match, Z32 airflow, PFC (rb25), 3.5 inch exhaust from the turbo. 285rwkw. 550cc inj setup on current head.

Options:

1) Still have origonal head and all standard extras so if I remove my motor now I will have the full origonal stock motor as a defect motor.

2) 3L $5000-$10000 dollars. Plus loose some of my current pipework.

3) Build a 2.7L RB25 bottom end when mine goes.

4) RB26 Motor as sujested above. Need to buy all the turbos etc etc

5) RB26 Bottom end with my virtual RB26 head. Cheap option however is the bottom end any stronger than stock RB25 or should I say how long would it last running at say at a targeted 320rwkw.

rb26 is a strong bottom end then rb25 (but rb26 rods will fit your block and arnt that $$)

rb26 bottom will handle 320rwkw no worries , if looked after (mine currnretly 395rwkw)

a little breathing doesnt necessary mean the motors shagged

$1000 for rb26 bottom end sound pretty cheap just hope all is in good knick

In my opinion i would think you best course of action would be to buy a set of rb26 rods ~$300 and new forged pistons ~$1250 for your current configuration ,cos even if you put rb26 bottom end in, there no guarantee it is in good knick but do a rebuilt like this and you know its money well spent.

sounds like a nice ride

pete

rb26 is a strong bottom end then rb25 (but rb26 rods will fit your block and arnt that $$)

rb26 bottom will handle 320rwkw no worries , if looked after (mine currnretly 395rwkw)

a little breathing doesnt necessary mean the motors shagged

$1000 for rb26 bottom end sound pretty cheap just hope all is in good knick

In my opinion i would think you best course of action would be to buy a set of rb26 rods ~$300 and new forged pistons ~$1250 for your current configuration ,cos even if you put rb26 bottom end in, there no guarantee it is in good knick but do a rebuilt like this and you know its money well spent.  

sounds like a nice ride

pete

Supposedly had only done 30000km and in good nick. Yeah was considering your sujestion however would prefer going to the rB26 Crank as well in the rB25 bott end - starting to cost. However this way its all there. Just not sure if the head would mate up oK. Surely it would be a good buy just for the crank later on if nothing else.

Grepin,

If you were to go the RB25 head on the RB26 route you would have to modify the heads vct oil feed. Possibly weld.

You would then be required to tap in to the oil pressure sender oil feed then drill the head and tap in to the vct's oil galley in the head. Run the required hose and your done.

This is what they do for the RB30DET as essentially the bottom end (water/oil galleys are exactly the same as the rb26 bottom end)

Its a little bit of stuffing around but not to worry. :cheers:

Those cams would go nicely with a rb30 sitting under there.

The RB30's don't need high rev's so an rb30 making the same power as an rb25 will last a little longer.

The PFC issue is nothing to worry about.

My rb20det pfc runs the rb30det (which runs the rb25 head) no problems. The base map even runs it well.

The only small issue with the base map is the warm starts are hard to get going.

Grepin,

 

If you were to go the RB25 head on the RB26 route you would have to modify the heads vct oil feed. Possibly weld.

You would then be required to tap in to the oil pressure sender oil feed then drill the head and tap in to the vct's oil galley in the head. Run the required hose and your done.

 

This is what they do for the RB30DET as essentially the bottom end (water/oil galleys are exactly the same as the rb26 bottom end)

 

Its a little bit of stuffing around but not to worry. :cheers:

 

Those cams would go nicely with a rb30 sitting under there.

The RB30's don't need high rev's so an rb30 making the same power as an rb25 will last a little longer.

 

The PFC issue is nothing to worry about.

 

My rb20det pfc runs the rb30det (which runs the rb25 head) no problems. The base map even runs it well.

The only small issue with the base map is the warm starts are hard to get going.

The head has already had the VVt sealed up. Is that what you mean?

So being a RB26 I guess it can support more power, however I wonder if it would make more given the same boost etc as on the rB25 bottom end.

The larger motors do tend to make a little more power and at a lower rpm.

Its not much, 5-10rwkw more with everything being the same. Boost, timing etc.

You do notice a little difference with the rb30 vs the rb25 but I am unsure if you will notice a difference with a rb25 vs rb26.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...